Timing help

1983 b2000 sundowner

I have read where the crank pully needs to line up with a mark on the block to start with however my crank pully has been removed and put back on a few times and I couldnt tell you where it was originally. I have however turned the motor by hand to where the #1 cylander is TDC.

Also my cam sprocket doesnt have a 1,2,3,4 or an a,b,c. All it has is a #4 and a triangle.

I am assuming that since the cylander #1 is at TDC this is where it needs to be as far as the crank is concerned...i HOPE anyways.

So where does the cam pully need to be? on the triangle or on the #4?

I gotta get this thing running, I cant afford to either take any more time off from work or keep putting gas in the trail balzer for my 53 mile each way commute to work.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Do you have a timing belt or chain?

With timing belts the cam has a pin that needs to face up. There is a hole in the washer at the bolt where the gear is secured to the camshaft. The crank shaft has a key way so the crank gear can only be installed one way.


For the timing change I'm not sure I haven't taken one of those apart. The book shows keyways for both that need to face up.

Its a chain and I don't have the timing chain cover off so I can'tsee the crank sprocket. This afternoon I'm going to pull the rest of it off so I can get this lined up right.

This is getting old but I'm getting good at tearing it apart and putting it back together

ok, so I am making some headway.

I read here

that both key ways are to be straight up on both the cam and the crank. then you are supposed to line up the nickle plated links accordingly. so I am wondering if this would be correct.

I am also curiuos as to what difference it makes where the chain is as long as the crank and cam are in the right position. Its not that hard to do, I was just wondering the significance of it.

That picture showing the keyways to be facing up in the link you posted is also in the Haynes manual.

It shouldnt matter where the chain is as long as if the motor is turned over several times and the marks or keyways stay together.
When I put on a new belt I rotated the engine by hand several times and made sure the cam gear and crank pulley marks would face up together each rotation. Doing a chain should be the same. If the cam and crank don't hit there marks together each time there is an issue with the belt or chain.

I havent spun the motor but ill do it now.

Thanks for the confirmation I was on the right track

Ok...got her all back together and tried to fire it....it almost started. So I assume my dizzy is off a bit. I also noticed that my rotor is cracked which may be part of the problem. Ill pickup a new rotor ttomorrow. Reset to tdc on the compression stroke and see if it runs....

Keep your fingers crossed or offer other ideas

ok, I got her running...by adjusting the dizzy a little bit until it fired, however now she runs like shit....so now what?

Its missing bad and I dont trust it. Only seems to miss really bad under load. Oh and she wont idle. There is some sort of vacuum thingy that has a busted end on it and I couldnt tell you if its been that way the whole time or if it is a new injury. It is coming off a thing that sits above the firewall. I'll post a pic in a second.

Sounds like you got it a tooth off.