Retorque Permatorque?

I just replaced the head gasket on my truck. I bought a Fel-Pro, but it wasn't until I got home that I noticed it was a PermaTorque.

The first thing I noticed was it specifically said to not use a sealer. I was prepared to spray some copper on it, but everything I researched online agreed with not spraying these type of gaskets.

It also says not to retorque, but of course it's "required" to retorque our head bolts after a few heat cycles.

What is the general consensus? Do as the head gasket says, or do as the manual says?

I would go by what the gasket says if you retorque a no_retorque gasket it may damge the gasket I had a 94 civic I used the no retorque gasket drove it for 6 months no issues traded it and my buddy still drives it to this day I did the HG in 2010 also you may want to make sure you can reuse your head bolts

You can assuming they're okay.

I used the gasket kit from DNJ. There weren't any instructions at all. The Haynes manual says 59-64 ft lbs. That is final. I read on this sight somewhere that the Haynes is not right on a few things. Should I check them at the 500 mile oil change? My dad who owned his own garage said it should probably be good, what do y'all think?

I used the permatorque gasket before on my b2000. I didn't retorque and it burned a few years later.
I recommend retorquing, no matter what the gasket maker thinks.

Uh oh. I sold the truck without retorqueing

Mazda didn't pull these in for free re-torque 500 miles when someone bought brand new, did they?

Did you re-torque Cusser? Here is what mazdatrucking says: "A second common reason for engine overheating within a year of replacing a head gasket is failure to retorque the head. Re-torquing the head must be done because of thermal expansion. When the engine gets up to full operating temperature the cylinder head expands and causes the head gasket to compress more than it would while the engine is cold. This causes the head gasket to permanently compress a certain amount which releases tension on the head bolts. To ensure this does not happen the head bolts must be retorqued after the engine has gone through a few heat cycles. A heat cycle is when the engine is operated up to full operating temperature and then allowed to cool down to ambient outside temperature. After you have ran the engine a few times and allowed it to cool remove the valve cover and set your torque wrench to the maximum head bolt torque listed above, then tighten each bolt in sequence. Never loosen a head bolt after the head gasket has been installed, doing so may cause the head gasket to blow." The only thing I can think of is, at the factory after assembly they run the engines for break-in procedure, pull the rocker arm cover and check the torque. Aluminum does expand and contract a lot more than cast iron, makes sense in a way.

Did I re-torque after my Oct. 2011 B2200 rebuild? YES, I did, at 500-600 miles, and I wrote that down in my book. I found that two bolts needed re-torquing, and the others (eight, I believe) measured out OK.

Cool thank