2.2 motor question

is it possible to bend a valve on a 2.2 lets say if the timing belt goes? or is it impossible for the pistons to hit the valves?

i may of just bent some valves moving my timing 180.. had tons of issues.. is it possible to be off 180 when installing the head on the block at the timing marks?

yes, they are interference engines I believe!

i moved the cam 180 after i had tons of issues with it not starting... now i need to buy a starter.. sucks without a choke, i just have to give it more gas untill its cold.. seems as its running on 2 cylinders.. my bro told me to do a compression test on it, so i will do that in the morning i have to go to his garage and get the tester, i dont have one... sucks.. i could throw this truck off a cliff right now..

everything I have read says there noninterference motors Im not saying you cant bend a valve but I think it would be hard unless something was in the motor to start with.

this kid i know semi locally said there non interference motors. got it done and its smoking, burning oil.. im so mad...

burning oil after a rebuilt head prolly rings man

i've been off by 180 degrees before and the valves didn't hit. but it never started for me, only turned over. why did you rebuild the head? did it over heat and warp? if so it may have cracked internally explaining your oil leak.

i found out from my buddy there non interference motors, so i was happy to hear that.. i was right with my timing, my bro thought i was 180 off (and i obviously rotated it, while it was bolted down and it ran like crap and i assumed maybe i bent a valve, but it was the firing order) so we tried that, and at first i took the head off because after i got the newer motor in, the fuel pump was shot then i used my old one, and it leaked oil out of the side of the head, so i took off the head cleaned the bottom of the head and block/pistons etc and just slapped it back together with a new head gasket.. i messed up the firing order and thats why it took me like 6 hrs to figure it all out.. and after all, its smoking.. so im debating to buy an ebay rebuilt motor now or find one used for cheap locally that i can hear run myself.

and my buddy told me when i said i might do the valve seals, to see if that will help, he said the valve guides are usually what goes.. im just about to give up on this block.. so now i have 2 rebuildable motors..

It sounds like you need to buy a rebuilt engine. I think you can get one from Autozone for around $1500 with your old engine turned in for the core.

When a B starts burning oil, it usually means it's time for a rebuild.

You should also get a Haynes manual if you plan on pulling the engine yourself. Remove the hood and radiator. You don't need to remove the intake manifold and carb, just hold it out of the way with bungy cords to the passenger wheel well. You can do the same with the air conditioner and power steering pumps on the driver side. Take lots of pictures and make lots of notes AS you take it apart to get it out. Put groups of parts into large baggies. If you decide to rebuild your engine yourself, don't use the cork pan gasket that comes with the gasket set. Use a good high temp RTV sealant.

HTH

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"No matter where you go, there you are.", Buckaroo Bonzai