having some retarded problems

1990 mazda b2200 hey guys k here is the story first off my water pump seal went so i replace all seals on the top end cause it was leaking oil from the fuel pump and the head gasket then i put it back on the road and i was doing about 140 kmh down the hwy and the little 1/4 inch hose below the therostat housing just decides that it wanted to brake off the motor and all my antifrezze came out then my motor died and now will not start back up i think the head worped or i blew the head gasket because when my truck was getting loaded on to the flat bed some antifreeze came out the exhaust

but i was wondering what you all might think of why the truck wont start just shoot me some ideas



also how hard is it to do a mazda 626 turbo and the head
cause if the head is blown i might as well turbo my truck

yeah sounds like a head gasket, doesnt mean you have a blown head tho.. mine had a blown hg but the head was fine.. probably wont start do to loss of compression, and probably you had no coolant i know my mazda wont start if no coolant is in it i have no idea why but it wont lol

btw i got a complete 626 turbo setup for $250 just the manifolds and ecu wire harness etc.. no engine or head

how hard is it to install the turbo and everything it needs

everything i have is direct bolt on got everything included, you would need to fab an exhaust from the downpipe back otherwise direct replacement of your stock manifolds

just have the head checked, then put a head gasket on it bro.

Check your water level in the radiator.

Pull the sparkplugs and try to crank the engine.

If you see water coming out the sparkplug holes, you have a blown headgasket at a minimum.

With the radiator cap off and water in the radiator, if you see water blasting out of the opening where the cap goes while you try to crank it, you have a blown headgasket at a minimum.

Pull the dipstick and check the consistency of the oil. . .if it looks like brown goo, instead of oil, you have a blown head gasket at a minimum.

Do a compression test. . .if you have a really low reading. . .anything less than 120 psi on any cylinder. . .you have a blown headgasket at a minimum.

kool thanks all i am gonna pick up some parts for it tomorrow and check it out thatnks again for all the info and neptune ill have to get back to you on that turbo i really wanna but ill have to see how much money i got left

ok all status update it had changed the front housing where the hose broke off still nothing so i changed the head gasket today (block was full of water/coolant) still nothing the truck is having problems turning over so i took the spark plugs out and low and behold turn over the motor and more water/coolant come shooting out


P.S. THIS TRUCK IS RETARDED

Sorry you are still having trouble with it, but maybe you missed something when you redid the gasket.

I don't know what kind of experience or expertise you have.

When I overheated my engine last July, (the same little hose you are posting about broke on mine) I took the head to a machine shop and had it checked for warp and cracks. If you didn't do that . . . maybe you needed to.

I also pulled the pan and checked the rod bearings. . .and it was a really good thing I did. . .when the antifreeze gets into the oil, it does two things. . .it thins out the oil, so the bottom end doesn't get lubricated properly. . .the heat tears off the coating on the bearings, so clearances are too great, leading to a loose bottom end, flat spots on the crank, and slung rods eventually.

The other thing that antifreeze does is dissolve the lead coating on the bearing shell. . . same result. . .destroyed motor.

When you operated the vehicle outside of design parameters, there are steps you need to take to assure that permanent damage has not occurred to the powerplant, prior to reassembly.

I do this stuff for a living; if I shortcut one step, if it fails, I regret cutting the corner.

Here's a link to the write up dealing with a blown bypass hose. . .