Frustration to no end

okay heres my issue ( 90 b2200 2.2 carb( stock but it has been tampered with ) ).. the on this truck has been messed with, they drilled out the pin to protect the idle screws , now it used to idle every once and a while but now the truck will not idle to save its life , wether its warm or cold it doesn't matter.

I have a different carb but before i do a swap i was curious to know if there is anything I can check or do before hand, they have removed ( as far as i can tell the auto choke pull off and managed to bend the choke vane) but like I said 2 days ago it would idle every once and a while at 2000 rpms which i would be okay with for the mean time but no idle at all is well lets just say the pedal dance is getting old , as between home and work there are 6 lights that always manage to go red when i approach them ... any help would be greatly appreciated

As a temporary fix can you adjust the throttle cable to pull the idle linkage tighter?

First thing I would check is the vacuum line routing and look for any vacuum leaks. There are diagrams you can use for reference and trace every vacuum line to make sure it is routed to the proper spot, and also make sure there are no loose lines or tears in any of them. Then you need to make sure the idle speed screw is set right, don't have a pic off hand but there is a screw on the linkage used to adjust idle speed. If you still can't get it to idle, you can will need to check the adjustment of the idle mixture, but this requires a dwell meter to do properly.

Yes, check for vacuum leak, like a hose that has cracked or has fallen off. There are asldo some vacuum caps on the intake manifold, covered with caps (like if you do not have power steering or cruise control, which use vacuum).

And for sure I'd pull the EGR valve, and make sure that it wasn't stuck partially open; this happens on these trucks, and causes stalling big time. I've had the same symptoms with my truck and the EGR was stuck partially open. Stuck EGR valves can typically be cleaned out and put back into service. New ones are over $200, so don't just blindly replace one (if the EGR turns out to be your issue, and you can't get yours working, I have two working used ones, PM me).

Ooh Ooh OOOH!
Pick me, pick me!
Here we go, do you have a slow fuel stop solenoid in your carb? (towards the firewall on mine)
Pull the connection and trip it (to a positive source) manually, you'll hear/feel if it's working.
If this gives out, YOU WON'T IDLE as they tend to close when not working which kills off your idle.
PULL IT OUT and remove the spring if it's not working or working intermittently. you'll idle again! magic!
You'll also sometimes "Diesel" because it doesn't kill the idle loop when you turn off the car. Just stall the dieseling (gently!!!, ride the clutch to stall it IF it is dieseling! when you turn it off NOT to turn it off).
Or it might be something else. but worth checking.