RPM issue on startup and when warm

I am having a head scratcher here. When I first start my truck its RPM is around 1000 or less. Once it warms up it stays around 2000 RPM. This truck has been spiting for a year. It struggles going up hills (losing some power). The timing is dead on the mark and its air filter has been replaced. I have yet to do wires or plugs however they were replaced before it was left to die (aka battery died on the kid and they started driving moms car instead of getting another battery). It also has a new clutch in it put in just before it was left to die.

I changed the oil about 5 times before driving it. I do plan on changing the spark plugs and wires and possibly ripping out all of the emissions using a post here (its stock everything right now). Any ideas as to what could be going wrong or if simply removing the emissions may fix the problems its having?

1990 B2200 2.2L (carb)

Stuck choke + funky idle mixture? When it's warmed up and idling take the air filter off and see if the choke is still engaged.
If it is, give it a poke and see if it goes back to normal. I had this with my truck, warmed up like a bitch, missing etc etc and then once it cleared some temp it'd rev it's nuts off. Clean the linkages, check electrical the connections, if you've got some carb cleaner give that a jam too before you rip into the electrical side of things (which never hurts but why fix it if it ain't broke).
Good luck.

This helped a little. It did seem to be stuck. Now she is ideling at 1.5k RPM's instead of 2k but is wanting to stick at 2k after a rev so something else is sticking. I will continue to do carb cleaner treatments. Do you think this will help with the gas MPG problem I am seeing too? She is getting 16 MPG on the dot. I did a continued test on about 5 full tanks of gas to get that number.

I would say this truck was abused by the previous owner so I am trying to prolong whats left of its life until I get another car. Then I will either tear down the engine and rebuilt it or I will sell it. She is spitting black out the tailpipe now too. Could be the reason its getting bad MPG and is weak going up hill. No other signs of a blown head gasket or cracked head that I see so it may just be trashed rings.

Sweet, sounds like you're on the right track mate.
Did you check/test the electrical connections to the choke? How did they come out?

Surprised we haven't had more feedback on this one!

Check the compression to see what the rings are performing like if you can.
Not sure if loss of compression would cause black smoke but I suppose which a more incomplete burn it could do. (verification?)

Clean those linkages again, don't worry about cleaning the internals of the carb again, check to see if your solenoids are firing well.
I cleaned the buggery out of mine, gave it a grease and still gave me shit, so I imagine it was the electrics but couldn't be arsed so wired it open. So I am a hypocrite telling you to check your electrics but that's where my problem would have been if it'd had the energy to deal with it.

Good luck!
Oh and once you have your choke sorted out, reset the fast idle etc etc, since you're in the vicinity.

To me your issues lie with the carb and possibly the exhaust.I would need to scan a pic of parts I want to show to explain.However just cleaning the stock carb helps but, a good rebuild will help more.I did just my top half,new gaskets,new float seat,adjusted,replaced my plunger rubber oring,boot,cleaned my slow fuel cut solenoid,and have a new air/fuel mixture solenoid yet to install months later.On the slow cut it just needs to be cleaned.I will try to post more later.Now for black smoke,truck probably is running a touch rich,carb related and or rings normal.I would drop the pre convertor container mounted just below the exh man,and it has to come out from the bottom,it has screens inside it and catches carbon and prob blocked up!The container is large round jar like,and do new gaskets and you might want to replace the reed valve filters on the charge air pipes on the front of the air cleaner.There are 3 filters inside the alum housing where the 3 hoses go right at or close to the timing belt cover.I would also suggest removing your egr valve, 3 ten mm bolts,one vac line,one elect conn, below the carb mounted at a angle.Remove it clean with a tooth brush and carb cleaner and make SURE you reinstall the gskt exactly back as it was.See if the metal pintal moves back and forth easily use a flat hd scrw drvr and reinstall.Sorry for the book and will try a good pic of said items I need to show pics.Just tired now and will try to share a good pic or scan of what I am describing.My thoughts and 16mpg is not far off mark for real mpgs for a old trk.20-22 is real #s based on yrs of owning mine since new!Ok done and crashing soon.