nightmare clutch change

I am in the process of changing a clutch. According to alldata.com, the exhaust pipe has to be taken off to get to the left side of the transmission. That'e where the nightmare started. In the bottom of the catalytic converter, i rung two of the three studs off. Heat and vise grips didn't work to get out the stubs. PB Blaster was used intermittently and it doesn't seem to have done anything to the studs. Even took an old nut and tach-welded it to the stud. Rung it off flush. So I guess we get to drill it and try to use an extractor. If that doesn't work, then we retap the hole. Any other ideas?

everything else will waste time and give you a headache. at this point just take off the cat and drill and retap any bolts that break. PB blaster works great but next time you work on exhaust components you'll want to soak it for a couple hours or possibly the night before

I guess that's one advantage of being out west in a dry climate. I took apart all my exhaust components about two years ago, and had that front cat converter out last October, and no issues, no rust. And I don't think I used PB Blaster either, but that would've been a good idea.

I agree, get those off the truck, and drill and re-tap to metric or SAE thread then.

As for the front catalytic bolts, here is how we fixed it. Welded bolts to the stubs. As noted the first one rung off flush. The second one, we soaked and soaked and soaked with PB Blaster. And waited over a weekend and then didn't touch that bolt until late Monday. With a little bit of breaker bar action, the broken stud with the welded on piece twisted out. No threads damaged.

The one that broke off flush had to be drilled. It was in a location that was easy to get to under the truck. We took our time and drilled it out piece by piece, then retapped the hole. No thread damage to this one either.

Note to self: Spray PB Blaster on exhaust parts at least two days before attempting to take them apart.

2nd note to self: use anti-seize lubricant on such threads when re-installing the nuts.

OK to use red Loctite to keep the new stud in place in the newly-tapped holes, or the one you backed out.


Here in Arizona, the only thing I broke when I pulled my exhaust system out/rebuilt the engine was a 6mm x 1.0mm bolt (with 10mm head) that helped hold a heat shield on to an exhaust part.

yeah man, panther piss (pb blaster) is the shit. takes a little time to soak but its majic stuff i tell ya, i use it daily here at work (heavy diesel mechanic)

I've used PB Blaster, Moovit, Aerokroil, Liquid Wrench... in all honesty, the best stuff I've ever used is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Serious. It just eats away at the rust and makes everything so easy to pull apart.

SO as an extension of this particular small project that seems to be neverending, does anyone know if the rubber boot around the end of the transmission where the driveshaft enters the transmission would have a reason to be slowly dripping gear oil? I think its called an Oil Seal? And the plug to drain the gear oil is also dripping slowly. Kind of a concern, but could just be overflow (for the end of tranny) or a gasket on the plug that I didn't realize existed. And as a note, I put in 2 quarts of gear oil, then measured the oil amount by sticking my pinky into the plug on the side of the transmission. Seemed to be the appropriate amount.

The drain plug soley has a oring metal and if it leaks most auto stores sell orings (copper) that should resolve that.I myself put some thread sealant on the plug (fill area) for mild leaks solved.Now if your trans is leaking fluid at the drive line that should be the input shaft seal.Going on memory and not sure on that part #.I am not sure if that is the bearing with a seal made into it,or it is a bearing and seal.It maybe the input shaft bearing itself.Idk yard work is kicking me hard,so maybe some others can chime in.

Thats the output shaft seal. Extension housing seal.