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Mazda 2.2L \  Pls help, last chance & only one problem!

Pls help, last chance & only one problem!

Mazda 2.2L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 8
following 5
 
zaccutt   +1y
Hi everyone,

This is my last chance, my last trip permit expires tomorrow.

I can't pass etest. Previously I did everything, new O2 sensor, cat, replaced the carb etc. (Cost me $1500) ad ended up being a corroded terminal on the computer..

Here are the results now

The first test I did

1948rpm
HC 141/102
CO 1.00/0.56
NO 723/1132
Dilution 15.3

Idle 1339
HC 296/200
CO 0.00/1.00
Dilution 10.0

The test today I leaned the carb way out which proved to help a lot.

2887rpm
HC 102/102
CO 0.36/0.56
NO 622/1132
Dilution 14.9

Idle 970
HC 409/200
CO 0.02/1.00
Dilution 8.2

Now I only failed on HC at idle. I know this can be a number of things but apparently it could also mean it is too lean. It was barely idling, seemingly only around 650-750. I am tempted to turn it up just a bit, is it worth it?

Not only is tomorrow my last trip permit day but I only get one more half price test. One more shot..

Thanks for reading.
Zac
Cusser   +1y
Heres what I always did on my two carbureted vehicles (B2200 and 1971 VW) before each emissions test (2 counties in Arizona test all the way back to 1967):

clean or replace spark plugs
replace air cleaner
make sure engine is at FULL operating temperature

and on the VW, I would lean out the idle mixture a little and raise the idle to about 1100 rpm. Idle is a dirty-running condition; in fact, for quite a few years Arizona only tested at idle, figuring that was greates area of failures. So I think higher rpm could be a good idea.

Side note, story: in 1989 I had a carbureted V-6 (yes V-6) 1984 little Jeep Cherokee, and failed emissions. I stopped at a mechanic's shop and asked if they could check it out, and the guy says it needed a new carburetor. Hmm, I say, that's a pretty keen diagnosis from 50 feet away and behind the counter. So I call an emission specialty shop, he says he charges $25, and guarantees you'll pass or no charge. I go there, I watch, the guy pulls off a vacuum hose (to suck in air, leaning it out), then increases the idle speed with a screwdriver. He says get it tested, come back, he'll return to normal/best driving. I go, I pass. Now - I saw EXACTLY what he did, I passed, but hadn't paid him, could've just not gone back and returned the vacuum hose and idle back to before. But I DID go back, paid him for the technical teaching, went home and painted that hose and adjustment screw red for the next test.
90-b22dawg [andrew]   +1y
WHAT CAUSES HIGH HYDROCARBON (HC)?
Below are common failures which are likely to produce high Hydrocarbon HC. Hydrocarbons are basically raw fuel, otherwise known as Gasoline. High Hydrocarbon (HC) emissions are almost always a sign of poor fuel ignition. However, it's not always that the engine's ignition system is responsible for high Hydrocarbon emissions. Read on.

1. Improper Ignition Timing - Engine ignition timing is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC). Example of an ignition timing failure would be in the case where an engine's ignition timing is required to be set at 10 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) and instead is set to 15 degrees BTDC. This fault will not only cause a smog check "functional failure", but will increase Hyrdocarbon (HC) emissions as well. California allows 3 degrees +/- off of the manufacturer's required setting. Note: Late model vehicle's may not have a distributor, and therefore no timing adjustment will be needed. On these engines timing is electronically controlled by the ECU (Engine Control Unit).

2. Defective Ignition Components Your vehicle's ignition system consists of the ignition coil/s, distributor*, distributor cap*, distributor rotor*, ignition wires, and spark plugs. If any of these components are defective the engine will produce high hydrocarbons. A common reason ignition components perform poorly is due to carbon build-up. High ignition voltage traveling through the air pockets within these components form carbon. Carbon acts as an insulator between paths of electricity, decreasing the energy required at the spark plug to ignite the air/fuel in the combustion chambers properly. *Distributor-less engines do not have these components.

3. Lean Fuel Mixture - Any condition which will cause unmetered air to enter the intake manifold, and ultimately the combustion chambers, will cause high hydrocarbons (HC). This condition is called a lean miss-fire. Such faults as vacuum leaks and gasket leaks will cause lean fuel/air mixtures. Broken, disconnected or misrouted vacuum hoses will do the same. It is also important to note that many engine components rely on engine vacuum for proper operation. If any of these components are defective, externally or internally, they may cause large vacuum leaks as well. A good example of such a component is your vehicle's power brake booster.

4. Defective Catalytic Converter - A defective catalytic converter (CAT) may be responsible for high HC, CO, and NOx emissions. The Catalytic Converter, commonly referred to as the CAT is a component designed to continue the combustion process within itself and emit a more thoroughly burned and less harmful emissions containing exhaust. The most accurate way to find out if your vehicle's CAT is working efficiently is by using an exhaust gas analyzer. Unfortunately this tool is fairly expensive. Testing the CAT should be conducted at a smog check repair station.

Some obvious symptoms of a bad CAT could be any of the following:

a. Major loss of power over 15-25 mph. This may be an indication that the catalytic converter is plugged up and restricting exhaust flow.

b. Strong sulfer or rotten egg smell emitting from the exhaust on an otherwise good running vehicle. This may be an indication that the Catalytic Converter isn't burning fuel completely, instead storing it, then releasing it as hydrogen sulfide.

c. Loud rattle being heard from inside the CAT. This may indicate a broken Catalytic Converter substrate. You may want to insure this sound is not due to loose exhaust components, i.e. broken muffler flanges, loose exhaust pipes, loose or cracked exhaust manifold.

5. Defective Air Injection Components - Faulty smog pump and related emissions system components will cause high HC. The air injection system is designed to introduce additional oxygen, after the metering system, to the engine exhaust as it exits the exhaust manifold, or directly before it enters the Catalytic Converter; thus burning whatever remaining fuel (HC) in the exhaust completely.

6. Low Cylinder Compression - This fault is one of the less common high HC causing problems we encounter. Reasons an engine may have low or no compression in one or more of its cylinders may include things such as burned intake or exhaust valve/s, defective valve guides and/or seals, defective piston rings, and burned head gasket/s. A wet/dry cylinder compression test will diagnose this fault. More then often if such a problem exists it will be very apparent. You should notice rough idle.
zaccutt   +1y
Thanks Cusser, I have done all of that. Maybe need to do new plug wires, I just wish I had more time there are so many different possibilities.

Andrew, I have throughoughly studied and tried as much of that list as I can. I just wish there was an easy answer - I guess like removing a vac line like cusser said.

I think I have decided to cave and will drop it off at a mechanic tonight. There is a cap at $450 which includes all the diagnoses and tests. So it's not too bad, I will only have spent 2 gs on making our air clean.. Meanwhile my buddy has his truck registered to his rents 1 hour west of here and has been driving around with the same cherry bomb for over 5 years. He taunts me every time he drives by.. lol

Thanks for the help guys
dan woodland   +1y
In my county they test for a myriad of things but to pass after a failed test you simply need to improve that failed test portion by 30 % and you pass regardless of whatever happens later. For example, say you failed a test and the fix for that test makes you fail another portion of the test, as long as the first test was improved by 30% they give you a waiver until the next test in two years.

Fortunately here they stop testing after 25 years so my last test is in 2013.
zaccutt   +1y
They stop testing after 20 years here, however cancelled that in 2007. Last year would have been my year but of course the gov't screws me again!
Cusser   +1y


About 20 years ago, Arizona had a cap of $100 toget a waiver, so if a repair was going to cost more than $100, you just got the waiver. My 1971 VW convertible failed twice, so I had to go to the special station. They guys there were literally sitting at a table eating donuts when I drove up. They check out my VW, say I need a carburetor; I say that's over $100. The guy calls BAP auto parts, says they have a rebuilt carburetor for it for $99.95, doesn't give me a waiver. I say what about installation costs, taxes, gas to drive there, doesn't matter, no waiver given.

I did end up buying a new carb for it for about $150, OK with that because my carb had a rubber stopper crammed in its rear after a metal plug had blown out (now I've learned that the repair is to take a dime - mint date doesn't matter - and JB Weld that in to seal it).

Nowadays, Arizona only gives a one-time, one-year waiver, and one must pay much more than that and jump through hoops to get that (big money car dealers in politicians pockets here), so essentially that means no waivers, that part is a big joke. Especially when only 2 counties here have any testing at all - zilch in the others. Our air apparently does not mix !!!
dan woodland   +1y
Our max out of pocket is $300 every two years!!

I am slowly working my way to own nothing but old cars, so I can work on them, I don't have to get screwed by E-tests (which are free because they took the tobacco settlement money and paid for the tests), and they are simple.
91extcab   +1y
Back in washington they didn't test if you lived in certain areas, (you might find one place in one county that doesn't require a test, but the next city over might, and it could be in the same county as the first) or if its 25 years or older no testing required.

I've learned that here in north carolina the dont test anything older than 95, but in south carolina they dont test anything.
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