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Mazda 2.2L \  Stall while driving, Carbed

Stall while driving, Carbed

Mazda 2.2L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
views 2369
replies 6
following 2
 
zaccutt   +1y
Hey guys

I have been driving the truck for a while without any problems whatsoever. After fixing a battery issue the truck ran fine and then suddenly died while driving cold, then after a 15 minute drive it died again however would not start at all. And all of the electrics seem to be working normally, it turns over no problem. I then thought it was fuel so I changed the fuel filter. It still wouldn't start right after changing the filter but after sitting for two hours it started up on first revolution. However 2 minutes later it died while idling, the choke was on because it was warming up so it was idling high and well when it died. So it runs perfect, but dies suddenly while hot or cold, driving or not and will not restart when its hot. I am lost with this one its new to me.

I tried searching this and thought I've seen it before so maybe its just my terminology.. Also checked the shop manual to no avail.

(I might be finding my bike for work tomorrow lol)

Update: It started again after sitting and while keeping the rpm high (30 seconds after starting) it acted very sporadic with rpm jumping really high up then down and then finally just dies completely. And then immediately after it died it would not start at all again.

Thanks a lot
Cusser   +1y
This sure sounds like a bad ignition switch (electrical part). Just because the engine spins doesn't mean that the "run" circuit of the ignition switch is OK, this is common on these trucks as they age.

Yes, it did happen to my B2200 as well, about 15 years ago.

Test for positive voltage at the coil positive terminal with a voltmeter or 12 VDC test light next time it stalls or won't start (leave the key in the "run" position for this). And/or run a jumper wire with an in-line fuse from the battery positive terminal to the coil positive terminal, and see if it starts or runs.

Most of us here have replaced that electrical part of the switch; note that this does not mean at all that the lock cylinder where you key goes is bad, that's fine.
zaccutt   +1y
Lol, it started and drove normal all day today.. But I think you were right, definitely electrical ignition, thanks for the info. I'm going to check over all of my connections but if it does it again I'll check it.
zaccutt   +1y
And so today after work it started normal and then 30 sec later shut off. I tried running power into the coil +ve and it still would not start. I'm sweating buckets right now waiting for it to quit being a bitch and get me home. Any other ideas or does that bring anything to mind?

Thanks a lot
zaccutt   +1y
I think I got it figured out. I have new wires and it appears that the new wire on the top of the coil didn't make proper contact. The boot around it actually seemed to hold it up from clicking in. Hopefully that was all it was.
Cusser   +1y


Aha !!! You didn't state in your post that you had recently installed new wires. So this falls into the case where an issue is releated to something that was done recently, always something to keep in mind. Glad you found the problem.
zaccutt   +1y
Thanks Cusser. Yeah the wires were replaced about a month ago, so it was weird only having a problem with them now. So happy I found the problem though. Now I won't have to waste the weekend away!
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