Minor Emissions cleaning

Hello fello B's. I am posting this thread after doing some hunting on egr's and reed cleaning here on the Scene. Being sort-of in a bind to hurrying up to work/tinker on my work truck and save money, I somewhat rushed to get it done. Here are all the foto's I got. It was a fast weekend, so not many to share. Please excuse. I am a semi visual guy, so I kick myself for not taking considering others...

I drive a stock '93 B2200 carb.

Procedure:
I cleaned the egr, reed and air filter housing/assembly entirely with two cans of catalytic converter sage choke cleaner ($6 each can). Everything was taken off and cleaned- hoses, screws, clamps...

The EGR had to be carefully chisled with a small screw driver after soaking in choke cleaner carefully not to expose too much of it on the EGR "diaphram" (to be safe not knowing if it potentially would harm it). The carbon was so hard like charcoal briquettes- literally. Yes, the EGR worked prior to the cleaning.

The reed valve assembly was unusual. All rubber seals were in good condition- before and after. There are three square chambers each having one square cartriage containing the reed and sponge-like filter. The reed, cartriage and reed "curved" support were in good condition. Now the filters. All had carbon and dirt. One had a little of oil with excess collected within the chamber along with small size bee's and other like insects. The second was dry and o.k. for a 20 year old truck (I guess). The third had some feathers. What a transition of conditions, LOL. The three EGR filters along with the small "fig newton" air breather filter that's in the air fitler housing were soaked in choke cleaner rinsed with water (why?) and left to air dry till the next day.

The reason why the cleaning:
I failed the truck inspection for burning too rich. I had a rumbling sound coming from the carberator area plus preventative maintenance

Results: (knowing the vacuum system will need to be adjusted automatically or in time)
I do not know if "spudder" is the right word, but lets go with it. The truck spuddered or jerks a tiny bit at start of first and second gear. I adjusted the idle (screw). Four days after the cleaning, it is lessening. I do not know if it is psychological or not, but I am having to switch gears at higher rpm's (from 2800 or so to 3250 or so). In one weeks time, my mpg has stayed the same- 24.35.

Other things to attack:
Make sure the vacuum system is in working order after this cleaning.

Replace the front catalytic converter. Had I thought of it when replacing the rear "cat" and muffler.

Coat the wheel wells and frame with undercoat spray (for protection and awesomeness).

Find out why my AC/ heater blower does not blow as much out of the air vents as when the blower is removed from the housing from under the dash. Maybe it is justified physics and nothing to be concerned about.

From one tinker to another, hope this helps. I am not an auto mechanic, but where knowledge lacks, enthusiasm prevails.

Feel driven to provide correction/alternatives to the above cleaning...

Yeah, your EGR valve was really clogged with carbon !!!

My Reed valves were actually cleaner than yours, and I did clean them up before I sold that housing (I have Weber carb now).

As to your blower fan, it might be that your AC evaporator is clogged with leaves, debris, or even oil/dust from leakage (like mine was). You don't need to remove the evaporator to check and clean this.

Does the fan start out at decent volume, then decrease with time when the AC is on? That would indicate freeze up of the evaporator, check the de-icer switch.

Also make sure that the air volume isn't getting diverted somewhere else, like at the window defroster vents or under the dash.

Does your blower fan operate at all four speeds when installed? If not, check the blower resistor, on the evaporator/duct case.

Cusser. Thx for you input. It's very much appreciated especially for us non-mechanics wanting our B's to ride smooth...
It took me awhile to write, but everything is good now. Below the dash the blower and evaporator assembly has two large 1inch metal bands clamping the assembly. The one one the left was loose. I opened the assembly only 90% and saw the evaporator semi dirty but left it alone. Could not get two smallc-plamps loose. I buckled the loose metal belt and it blew a lot better. All speeds work well before and after.
About the spuddering when being in first and second gears, it is gone. I believe it was the vacuum adjusting to the EGR and reed cleaning.
I had a rattling sound from the motor. Found out it was a cracked air filter housing. Will fix that with bj weld.

Next project, the burning of oil and new front catalytic converter.

I've heard of J B weld, but what is B J weld? For the rich condition, when a component of the stock system fails, the ecu tells the carbon to run rich, aka 'limp mode' That mileage though is pretty good, so im leaning more towards an old/dirty O2 sensor and/or cat. A loose heat shield can also cause a rattle, there are 3 on a stock setup. Exhaust and the 2 cats.

I'll ask Mrs. Cusser. She knows what B J is.

JB Weld (easy website address) is an epoxy, like play-doh, that hardens like a rock. It is used for all sorts of connections-steel, wood, high-heat, plastics, like super glue. Thanks EMJAY for your response. The front "cat" and O2 sensor are next to be replaced (I already did the stock muffler and back "cat").

Oh, I coat the wheel wells and visible frame exposure with a can undercoat spray from a local auto parts store with two cans- $15.

Oh, confession . I do not think I have posted this, but here is a picture of my recent seat lift. Funny thing is that I am a plumbing designer for an engineering firm and 1/2" nipples (1-1/2" and 1") is what first came to mind when uncomfortable about Rusty's seat height (I am 5'-8"). I will come back and cover it with, I do not know, teflon tap painted black LOL. I ride better
now. To finish it off, I swapped the driver seat base cusion with the passenger base. All is well now.

After the O2 senser and front "cat", the antenna will be replace with a working one. The stock one broke off as it was extended.

Roll-on B's...