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Mazda 2.2L \  In tank fuel pump - Is this the one I need?

In tank fuel pump - Is this the one I need?

Mazda 2.2L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 7
following 3
 
mazdabgood   +1y
My fuel pump just gave out and I would like to be sure I'm ordering the right one.
91 b2200 standard cab automatic FI in tank electric pump

The pump I plan on ordering is the Bosch 69665. Some part sites show this is for the b2600i, and other sites bring it up for the b2200 as well...?

I was planning to purchase this one off ebay:

Could someone familiar with these in tank pumps verify this pump will fit correctly?

Thanks to everyone in advance for any information/advice it's greatly appreciated!
sincitylocal   +1y
I believe the efi pump is the same for 2200 as it is for 2600i.
mazdabgood   +1y
That's what I was hoping to hear, thank you!

Has anyone pulled the bed off instead of dropping the tank to change the in tank pump? I'm just curious because on an 02 chevy 1500 I had (last in-tank pump I've changed) it was really easy just to unbolt the bed and came off with ease creating a much better position/access to the pump.
I remember thinking "I'll be doing that next time instead of dropping the tank". However, On that truck the tail lights had harnesses and it was just really simple to pull it off, is that the case for removing the bed of these too? It looks to be just the 4 bolts but do the rear light's have harnesses at the frame for bed removal?

Any tips/advice on the pump swap in general is great, I assume its just like any other but the more I know the better such as I'm sure there is a relay I should be checking prior to pulling the pump? Location? (I plan to check power at the pump before changing, but probably an easier way to make sure it's getting power?) thanks again!
sincitylocal   +1y
I've done it either way. It's far easier to lift the bed.
Don't pull the rear two bolts all the way out, so you can tilt the bed without completely removing it.

The relay on the 2600i is behind the driver side kick panel. I assume the 2200 would be the same, but don't know for sure.
Cusser   +1y


See this, with photos:
mazdabgood   +1y
Thanks for all the help guys!!

Huge thanks to Cusser, thanks to you I've pin-pointed my fuel problem to the relay NOT the pump. I'll be ordering a new Denso 056700-6381 instead of a fuel pump

For anyone searching in the future, look the denso relay up on google before paying $85-$110 for one from Napa, Autozone, or Oreillys. I'm ordering mine for $20 shipped. As of right now I'm finding them at sparkplugs.com & finditparts.com
Cusser   +1y
Hope that is it; R&R of a fuel pump relay is more than a little easier than doing a fuel pump, and the part is less expensive too.

But no power to the fuel pump means that no replacement pump would work in that situation.
mazdabgood   +1y

Exactly, I would have wasted $85 if it wasn't you and your quick action to save my day!!
Beer is on me if you ever come through Oregon


EDIT:
Well unfortunately the problems not the relay
Turns out it must be the ECM:
-Both sides of the relay are operating correctly
I jumped the fuel relay test connector (yellow harness near wiper motor) and with that jumped and the key "ON" the relay closes that side and sends power to the pump. The test connector has to be jumped in order for the pump to get power with the key "ON".
I also tested the other side of the relay by unplugging my jumper wire from the test harness, then checking power at the starter wire while cranking engine. I have power their, so I checked if it was transfering it to the fuel pump power supply wire (black/red in relay harness) and it was.

So, the ECM is not wanting to send signal (ground in this case) to the fuel pump relay. I am able to ground it manually with the test connector, but the truck still doesn't start.

I've checked for spark on all four plugs/wires and have good spark.
I checked fuel pressure but didn't really do it correctly, I'll be doing it again in the morning (I capped the fuel line with the gauge after fuel filter and before the regulator so the regulator was not tested, pump tests great @80psi)

I'm pretty sure I need a new ECM
Anyone have any ideas what might be going wrong with the ecm that will make the truck not start even with fuel, spark, and air? ECM looks great internally by the way. I opened it up and it all visually is great, it has been rebuilt. (part# EM7039)


UPDATE: Turns out it was low compression (2 bad rings confirmed by leak down test), truck is being parted out.
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