charge draining problem

to start off, i have a 90 b2200 single cab, 5 speed conversion, weber carb

problem: seems like if truck sits more then 12-18 hours,or after a few days the battery(im guessing) charge is going low and truck wont start
if truck does one of the 2, when you try to start it, it does the typical "low power" type start of lagging and not turning motor over very good, then starts clicking

what i know: battery is less then 6 months old, all grounds and terminals under the hood are clean and tight(done this 3 times already)
no radio in truck
no interior light
no cigarette light fuse


plan is to have battery checked tomorrow, if that passes, not real sure what else it could be
any suggestions on what to do?

Have you checked the charging voltage when it's idling?

no, someone walked off with my voltage meter
planning on getting a new one in the morning

did some more searching on here, seen a post talking about taking the negative cable off and running a test light from negative cable to the negative post..if light stays on it is a draw....now here is the issue i am running into...
is that supposed to be a positive or negative light?
i have a test light that has a positive AND a negative light

when i run positive to negative(post to post), the positive light comes on
when i take negative cable off and run negative cable to negative post, the negative lights up
also ground bolt on fender to negative post, and engine to ground post all light up negative light..
not sure if that is good
can anyone confirm these either way for me?

First check your voltage while running, if 13.5 to 14 volts, then charging. How do you KNOW the battery is OK, I always suspect the battery.


If battery and charging system are working, could be A SHORT OR A BAD ALTERNATOR EVEN IF IT CHARGES.
With your new multimeter, set it up in DC amps mode and put it in series with a battery cable, doesn't matter which one. Do NOT run anything or turn anything on, you'll blow the fuse in the meter and then be pi$$ed that you can't find a replacement. There will be small draw, like from a stereo memory or a clock, but should be less than 100 milliamps. More means a drain. Lots of times a drain comes from a bad alternator.

oh i have no idea if the battery is good, hoping because it is new its good
its gunna be checked today

kinda feel stupid for asking this, but what does it mean to set it up "in series" with a battery cable?
is that with ignition off, or truck idling?

Well, guy replaced battery no questions asked.
Tested alternator, tested good
When I got home, did notice a plug looking spot that I don't remember unplugging anything from
It's towards bottom on back of alternator


Does something go here? If so, what?
I'm thinking ground, may be wrong tho

A wire to the carb choke heater plugs into rear of alternator; others will post to detail whether that is the correct terminal or not.

No, when you connect in DC ammeter mode in series between a cable and its battery terminal it's the only pathway; but the truck cannot be running, EVERYTHING must be switched off, or you'll overload the fuse and furn it out. But first I'd see if new battery holds its charge. Most batteries will hold such charge for a month or more.

You'll want to search "parasitic drain", then you'd basically disconnect items singularly to find the drain. On these trucks oftentimes the ignition switch or the alternator is the source for such drains.

Thanks
I am gunna try to start on some of this today.

welp, bolt snapped off in back of alternator where single wire goes on, so will be trying to get that out

wire from choke wouldnt have anything to do with the drain huh?

Welp, my luck didn't get any better. All but destroyed the bolt and hole it goes into
Got a new alternator
Now looking at back of new one, there is the same little plug looking spot and a little bolt. (Bottom right in picture)
Can someone tell me what go to each of these