possible worn dizzy cap, need advice

so as some of you know I've been rooting the sputtering problems from my carb'd 2.2.
I pulled off the cap and for one noticed slight corrosion on #3 but inside is what I think my problem is.
the pins or contacts whatever you'd call them are round, or I think they should be. mine appear to be worn almost to half moon shapes and had a lot of flake on the arc surface. I scratched off the flakeys and reassembled. my problem is now worse than before stalling out at stops, but still idling in a parking lot.

is it supposed to have flat spots? the contacts are still shiny and clean, no evidence of water but they look worn as does the rotor.
.... problem solved?

Since you say that the cap looks bad, replace it (wires one at a time).

Always fix first what you know is bad !!!

Replace both. If you want to justify being cheap I can admit replacing just rotor often fixes a stumble they tend to go more often as they see juice all the time.

not distributor cap or rotor. they are now replaced, how does the vacuum advance work, I dumped a lot of seafoam through the pcv valve trying to clean it out before it was replaced.

however, I hear bad noises from the front of my motor the alternator was always noisy but I'm thinking mabye the water pump is going in it, I could smell burning rubber last night omw home and tonight after replacing the dizzy cap I topped off the coolant while running and that's when the bad noises started. is there an easy way to inspect the timing belt?

answered my own question by looking lol timing belt and pulleys look fine without having turned it over to look at the entire belt it actually looks fairly new, the tentioner spring has lots stretch on it so I'm assuming it hasn't stretched too much
I just got done replacing the cool with an accel super stocker as well but have not ran the truck with it yet. (don't wanna wake the boy)

I read somewhere that a rough idling engine attributed to vaccum advance could be tested by pinching if that's the right way it made no dofference.

I would have replaced the plug wires but crappy tire gave me a set for a v6... I'll take them back and buy a v8 set of accel super stock 8mm wires and crimp them.

One attaches a timing light and revs up the engine, to see if the mark advances as rpm advance. And check the timing at idle while doing that.

Be cautious of the moving fan and belts.

Theoretically one could remove the vacuum line to distributor and plug it, and use a hand vacuum pump and pull vacuum on distributor can, see if idle is affected.

Bad idle can also be a vacuum leak. Did you check that the 23, 817 vacuum lines on it are all attached , and no bare vacuum outlets are uncapped?

I think I've got it. when I did the egr delete I never pulled the vaccume line from the egr valve. I am assuming it was constantly open

yea definite improvement from pulling off the egr valves vacuum and plugging it, but still have a little spit, i think I'll take it off and put a blocking plate over the hole.
gonna order a 32/36 dgev next week anyway. (then the fun begins...)
just curious, with the noticeable improvements from ignition parts replacement is a non functional egr a probable cause? has anyone done egr delete with stock carb and had success?

I removed my egr and I run the stock carb with no problems at all . I even blocked it off with a small plate .

I think it's best to just remove and plug all ur vacuum lines but idk how it'll affect ur emissions . I'm just lucky we don't do a smog test . Lol