92 b2200 timing belt water pump repacement quick question

I have been reading here on and off for a few years. Really appreciate all of the information here, its been a big help. Getting ready for Weber install but this project comes first. I have searched and was not able to find out this information, my question is:

Do I need to pull the power steering pump and or bracket to change the water pump and timing belt ??

thanks
Tony

No, don't need to remove either.

Obviously you'll need to pull the belts. No need to remove distributor either. I would set to TDC #1 before I removed covers and the belt. Some like to make paint marks on the pulleys and old belt and transfer those marks to a new belt. Anyway, when you thin you are almost done, be sure to rotate the engine a few full turns to double check that stuff is still in alignment. By the way: the big bolt (21mm socket size) in the middle of the crankshaft pulley DOES NOT have to come off, remove the six small bolts that are somewhat hidden from view (10mm socket).

I'd only use top quality belt like Gates, Gatorback, or factory.

See

and

Get yourself a Chiltons or Haynes manual, they do a good job of detailing the steps needed to complete the job.

Depending on your mileage you may want to consider changing the oil pump at the same time - I only say that if it's questionable because you will be taking off all the same things to do the water pump.

Oil pump replacement - does that require pulling the oil pan?

Thanks for all of the info and suggestions. I ordered this kit off of ebay:

Evergreen TBK134WPT Mazda Ford F2 Turbo&Non-Turbo Timing Belt Kit w/ Water Pump

Its a great deal for me at $75 shipped to Maui. I will report back on my experience with the parts and install.

Tony

The old (carquest replacement) timing belt seemed to have excessive slack coming off. The new one went on nice and snug. I lined up the pulleys and marks before removing the old belt. Marked the old "timing belt" and pulleys top and bottom then transferred those belt marks to the new belt. After install, I spun it several revolutions and everything lined up sweet. NOTE: be careful with the small bolts on the crank pulley. Even with my 3/8 drive ratchet I over torqued 2 and snapped the heads so I am running with 4 of 6 bolts on that pulley. Keeping a close eye on it, so far so good. (e/z out project for the future) My rusty Maui rig has 150k miles on it. I also installed my Weber I had in a box for 2 years and finished up deleting the smog as much as I could. It purrs now. Thanks for everyone's previous postings and responses to my questions in this thread. Note: As recommended I did use a light coat of the Permatex aviation gasket maker on the Weber gaskets. The return spring needs improvement. Some mentioned the "metal sleeve" that needs to be removed on the throttle cable. This is a simple cut and split with tin snips or something similar.