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Mazda 2.2L \ Removing Oil Pan. Am I missing something here?Removing Oil Pan. Am I missing something here?
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replies 4
following 4
tobot
+1y
Today I was going to remove my oil pan. I got the cross member off as the manual said and the gusset plates.
I then unbolted the oil pan. After about 1 1/2 hours I finally broke the seal.
BUT.....I can't get it out. There is another bar in the way. I believe it is linked to the tie rod ends and more.
The manual does not say to remove anything other than what I already had. Is there some kind of magic angle I need to find to slide it out?
I then unbolted the oil pan. After about 1 1/2 hours I finally broke the seal.
BUT.....I can't get it out. There is another bar in the way. I believe it is linked to the tie rod ends and more.
The manual does not say to remove anything other than what I already had. Is there some kind of magic angle I need to find to slide it out?
sincitylocal
+1y
Pull the two idler arm bolts that hold it to the frame, and drop it(and the drag link) down from that side. This should give you enough room to pull the pan.
Cusser
+1y
I've removed my B2200 oil pan twice. Once I removed a tie rod end, the second time I removed one idler arm. I used the free loaner gear puller tool from Autozone, the smaller one shaped like a gear puller; I had borrowed it a few times before, now I own it. I've seen the same unit at Harbor Freight for under $10.
For me, both times the toughest part was breaking that Ultra Grey RTV seal around the oil pan (don't use a gasket there). You're practically done.
For me, both times the toughest part was breaking that Ultra Grey RTV seal around the oil pan (don't use a gasket there). You're practically done.
tobot
+1y
Thanks guys. I got the oil pan off. I removed the idler arm bolts. At least that's what I think they were.
I have a couple of concerns/questions.
Some of you saw my post before. I removed the head from this B2200 I just bought. There were no dowels in place. So when I removed the head, the head gasket was all mangled.
Well, I just got the pistons out. Most of them are pretty good looking. None of the rings were stuck. However, two pistons have a bit of a lip around a portion of the top. The lip is about 3" of the circumference. I'm assuming it's from them bashing into the metal portion of the head gasket that was mangled. I've attached a photo of the worst one. I've also attached a photo of the head. You can still see the cross hatch marks on all but the number 2 cylinder. This piston also had some coolant on it when I removed it. It was the piston with the worst lip.
Do you think I can sand off the lip and reuse them? Should I replace the 2 or do I need to replace all 4? I should probably still at the least replace all the rings, right?
I believe that the pitting issue I have with the block deck is not pitting. I think it was caused by the messed up head gasket. It is all in the same place where the gasket was bent. The deck is otherwise flat. I cannot get a .0015" feeler gauge under it anywhere. I know most of you won't like this, but I am going to sand down the deck with a piece of flat cast iron and see if I can take out the defects. I will plug all oil and coolant passageways.
The head is also in fairly good condition. I can barely get a .002" feeler gauge under it anywhere. However, there is something that concerns me here too. I've attached a photo of where the cam shaft sits. You will see some oil grooves that seem to be worn away. Is this the way the head is manufactured? When I put the cam shaft back in, there is no play whatsoever.
I think I will replace the bearing things where the connecting rod attaches to the crank shaft. They are a little messed up.
I have a couple of concerns/questions.
Some of you saw my post before. I removed the head from this B2200 I just bought. There were no dowels in place. So when I removed the head, the head gasket was all mangled.
Well, I just got the pistons out. Most of them are pretty good looking. None of the rings were stuck. However, two pistons have a bit of a lip around a portion of the top. The lip is about 3" of the circumference. I'm assuming it's from them bashing into the metal portion of the head gasket that was mangled. I've attached a photo of the worst one. I've also attached a photo of the head. You can still see the cross hatch marks on all but the number 2 cylinder. This piston also had some coolant on it when I removed it. It was the piston with the worst lip.
Do you think I can sand off the lip and reuse them? Should I replace the 2 or do I need to replace all 4? I should probably still at the least replace all the rings, right?
I believe that the pitting issue I have with the block deck is not pitting. I think it was caused by the messed up head gasket. It is all in the same place where the gasket was bent. The deck is otherwise flat. I cannot get a .0015" feeler gauge under it anywhere. I know most of you won't like this, but I am going to sand down the deck with a piece of flat cast iron and see if I can take out the defects. I will plug all oil and coolant passageways.
The head is also in fairly good condition. I can barely get a .002" feeler gauge under it anywhere. However, there is something that concerns me here too. I've attached a photo of where the cam shaft sits. You will see some oil grooves that seem to be worn away. Is this the way the head is manufactured? When I put the cam shaft back in, there is no play whatsoever.
I think I will replace the bearing things where the connecting rod attaches to the crank shaft. They are a little messed up.
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