axel breaker earl
+1y
To check your cam & crank timing........pull BOTH the upper & lower timing covers off.
Turn the crank until the "U" notch in the crank timing gear (the timing belt rides on it) is at the 12:00 o-clock position.......or aligned with the cast-in pointer on the oil pump (at 12:00 o-clock also).
Look at the camshaft timing gear. Is the #1 mark on the gear at the 12:00 o-clock position?
If not, rotate the engine one more full turn.......the cam gear #1 mark should be at the 12:00 o-clock position now.
Once both the cam & crank gears are at 12:00 o-clock, pull the distributor cap and make sure the distributor rotor is pointing to the 9:00 o-clock position......when you view it from the driver's front fender (side of the truck).
If it is not, pull the distributor and align the marks on it's shaft, and re-insert it into the head......while holding it in the exact position it should be in when you tighten it down.......(hold-down bolt should be in the center of the adjustment slot on the dist. base)
I will load a few pics here shortly, to show you what I mean.
Turn the crank until the "U" notch in the crank timing gear (the timing belt rides on it) is at the 12:00 o-clock position.......or aligned with the cast-in pointer on the oil pump (at 12:00 o-clock also).
Look at the camshaft timing gear. Is the #1 mark on the gear at the 12:00 o-clock position?
If not, rotate the engine one more full turn.......the cam gear #1 mark should be at the 12:00 o-clock position now.
Once both the cam & crank gears are at 12:00 o-clock, pull the distributor cap and make sure the distributor rotor is pointing to the 9:00 o-clock position......when you view it from the driver's front fender (side of the truck).
If it is not, pull the distributor and align the marks on it's shaft, and re-insert it into the head......while holding it in the exact position it should be in when you tighten it down.......(hold-down bolt should be in the center of the adjustment slot on the dist. base)
I will load a few pics here shortly, to show you what I mean.
geterdun
+1y
When you put the cap back on the distributor, wire it with the rotor pointed to number one (nine oclock).
(Where ever the rotor is pointed is where number one will fire.)
(Where ever the rotor is pointed is where number one will fire.)
hey_you
+1y
So, this is weird.
I started it the other day to check vacuum and compression. Vacuum was really low, bouncing between 0" and 5". Compression was also a little low, 120-130 lbs.; and some of the cylinders would bled down, #1 especially. So I put the crank at TDC as pictured in #1, and the cam gear was as shown in #2. This may have been when I was putzing with it, I saw somewhere that my symptoms indicate the cam being a tooth off. Nevertheless, I put the cam gear as shown in #3. I could swear I've had it at this position before. The weird part is it starts and runs OK now.
It runs OK, meaning it won't die when I open the throttle. If I stab the throttle, it will still die; I probably have some issue with the accelerator pump. Also, I have a Hydraulic Lash Adjuster noise ("lifters" in domestic pushrod engines). I don't know what I'm going to do about that.
I have 15" of vacuum; I didn't check compression, I figured I'd finally stumbled on the right setup. I haven't checked timing, yet. Dwell meter doesn't tell me anything, it stays at 0 or 90. I will look into all that when it warms up.
Anyhoo, I'm making progress. Thanks, again, for the help.
I started it the other day to check vacuum and compression. Vacuum was really low, bouncing between 0" and 5". Compression was also a little low, 120-130 lbs.; and some of the cylinders would bled down, #1 especially. So I put the crank at TDC as pictured in #1, and the cam gear was as shown in #2. This may have been when I was putzing with it, I saw somewhere that my symptoms indicate the cam being a tooth off. Nevertheless, I put the cam gear as shown in #3. I could swear I've had it at this position before. The weird part is it starts and runs OK now.
It runs OK, meaning it won't die when I open the throttle. If I stab the throttle, it will still die; I probably have some issue with the accelerator pump. Also, I have a Hydraulic Lash Adjuster noise ("lifters" in domestic pushrod engines). I don't know what I'm going to do about that.
I have 15" of vacuum; I didn't check compression, I figured I'd finally stumbled on the right setup. I haven't checked timing, yet. Dwell meter doesn't tell me anything, it stays at 0 or 90. I will look into all that when it warms up.
Anyhoo, I'm making progress. Thanks, again, for the help.
geterdun
+1y
This is timed right.
The lifters may free up, not my area on these engines. Maybe someone will chime in who knows that part of these engines
The leakdown would be normal for a used engine, rings and valves and valve seats wear.
I am sure the compression went up too. Sounds like a carb adjustment problem, but having set a long time, the mechanical advance in the distributor, down under all the goodies in there can "freeze up". The grease thickens up. If this has happened,.... running and use may free it up.
One can pull the distributor cap and try to turn the rotor button in the direction of travel, it should move slightly, then return when released. If not the mechanical advanve may be "frozen", gummed up. But that is later after enjoying the triumph of the moment, drive it.
The lifters may free up, not my area on these engines. Maybe someone will chime in who knows that part of these engines
The leakdown would be normal for a used engine, rings and valves and valve seats wear.
I am sure the compression went up too. Sounds like a carb adjustment problem, but having set a long time, the mechanical advance in the distributor, down under all the goodies in there can "freeze up". The grease thickens up. If this has happened,.... running and use may free it up.
One can pull the distributor cap and try to turn the rotor button in the direction of travel, it should move slightly, then return when released. If not the mechanical advanve may be "frozen", gummed up. But that is later after enjoying the triumph of the moment, drive it.
axel breaker earl
+1y
What Geterdun said^^^^^
On the HLA's, you'll need to remove the valvetrain and pull the HLA out of each rocker arm and clean them good, then re-fill with clean oil and re-install it all.......if there are a lot of miles on the engine (over 200,000) then it may be better to just buy new HLA's and pre-oil them before you install them.
If you want to do this, then I'm sure someone has a write-up on it on here or that other forum, if not, I'll post up a procedure in the near future.
I do know that Scotch has a good YouTube video on how to clean them......once you remove them......re-filling them with oil is similar to cleaning them......but you submerge them in clean oil to do that......instead of a cleaning fluid.
On the HLA's, you'll need to remove the valvetrain and pull the HLA out of each rocker arm and clean them good, then re-fill with clean oil and re-install it all.......if there are a lot of miles on the engine (over 200,000) then it may be better to just buy new HLA's and pre-oil them before you install them.
If you want to do this, then I'm sure someone has a write-up on it on here or that other forum, if not, I'll post up a procedure in the near future.
I do know that Scotch has a good YouTube video on how to clean them......once you remove them......re-filling them with oil is similar to cleaning them......but you submerge them in clean oil to do that......instead of a cleaning fluid.