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Mazda 2.6L \  weber q for an 87 2600

weber q for an 87 2600

Mazda 2.6L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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following 5
 
b-serious   +1y
Hi, i'm new to the forum. I have been researching info on a weber 32/36 swap for my 2600 and I have a few unanswered questions.
Does anyone run a/c with their weber? I had a weber on a early rx7 and when the ac was on and I came to a stop, stalling would be a problem. I know it was because of the lack an idle bump for the load on the engine. Has anyone found a way to run it better?

Is there a website with a pdf of the included instructions with the kit? Or a good pic step by step set up to use as a reference?

EGR... Some said keep it..What would be the benefit? Better MPG? How would it be set up? If it should be dumped... what is the benefit? besides cleaner engine bay and less hassle? Is it more reliable with it retained?

That about covers it.. Thanks in advance!
hocbj23   +1y
ur talking about a Mitsu 2600 with carb and not the Maz 2600i with FI? I would check on some other forums with peeps who run Mitsu Starions, or the old Dodge D-50 with the Mitsu carbed mota and see what they are doing.bj
dnag   +1y
that would help for anyone with a 2wd, but what about people with a 4wd. Mine is a 1987 b2600 4WD Automatic extended cab. It's hard to find anything that'll work on this thing.
skrapinsask   +1y
good weber information



more good help



Linn explaining to me how to properly tune the carburetor (this helped me more then mazda truckin did)

dnag   +1y
These all show Mazda B2200s. The 87 and 88 mazda B2600 came with a 2.9L mitsubishi engine. The mazda built B2200 and even B2600i and the mitsubish B2600 2.6L are two different animals.

I myself, have a 1987 Mazda B2600 Cab-Plus, with a 2.6L mitsubishi engine. It's also a 4x4 and has an automatic transmission.

I would like to know what I can ditch in term of hoses and emmission control and shit if I get the weber carb and headers. The more specific and thorough, the better.

I found this post somewher on the internet that talks about ditching the balancer shaft or something. If Someone could help elaborate on what he's talking about... lol

Any help is much apprecciated.

"......I have a 1987 B2600 that I got in high school 12 years ago. It pretty much made a foreign engines mechanic out of me, but I love the truck and still drive it daily.

I built the motor shortly after high school when the timing chain guide broke and the chain quit turning the oil pump at 100k miles. I made a mistake though, and left the balancer shafts in and reinstalled the mikuni. At 140k the balancer shaft sprocket wore out and of course oil pressure was gone again, but the sound clued me in this time before it was too late. Now I have done away with the balancer shafts with a $30 kit, installed a weber carb for $250, gutted the catalytic converters and put a $15 glass pack at the end. It performs a lot better now at 200K miles than it ever did even in '95 at 60k miles.

The point is the mazdabishis can be made into a simple reliable engine that will run like a scalded dog for less than $400. All those hoses, canisters, and wires can be thrown away. Mine is as simple as a farmall tractor engine......"
rcme86   +1y
You can pretty much ditch everything with the weber, i only thing i'm not sure about is if the automatic has a kickdown off the carb?? When i had my truck I gutted all the cats (3) and removed all the emissions and it still passed the test. The only hose's you'll have are the PCV and the distributor advance vacuum line. The truck ran awesome after all that.
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