rezarecting this truck is a major pain in the @ss

back in early november i drove my truck about 20 miles before i noticed the coolent /fan belt broke and it was overheating to the point of shuting its sefl down.I then noticed water in my oil.did the head gasket mid december oil & water poured out tailpipe found that my cylinder heads valve guide/seats whatever all broke except 3 so i traded my head out lapped valves tryed it again that head cracked so i when thruogh 2 more heads.......untill i found a decent 1 we could use after lapping vavles doing water test relapping .no more smoke no white no black no smoke but now theres a tapping or clicking noises so i drive it thinking it will disapaer it doesnt the front main seal leaked i fix it,the oil cooler o ring leaked fixed that than the oil light started to flicker on and off after it had ran for a while ,then my oil pan had a leak so we did that gasket bye removing the front axles,cross member tires 4 w d stuff got it all back together and theres that damm clicking noise I then get a different cam (within tolerance) put that in there still has noisy ass lashers replace the springs in my rocker arm assembly,redo more lashers than my timing cover had to be removed 1st time was to keep it from leaking and check chain slack,2nd time wasto remove broken pieces of old timechain guide and to alighn timeing line mark alignment on balance shaft chain. we finally get her all back to gether and guess what the funk im hearing yo'll never guess i'll give you a million guesses and i bet you you'll never gue.....VALVE LASHERS ARE CLICKING!!!!!!!! son of a B!+ch this truck is nt driving me any where except to the looney bin thats it thats all I got I left out a few things as well as the number of times i did some of those things i feel like a fiend got get my truck man,I JUST GOT GET IT WORKING oh Just 1 more thing.....5 min. laters just 1 more thing.........1 day later....just one more ....ect...ect im not sure if any1 can help but if you can i'd much appreciate it but if not thats ok too thanks 4 listening

Axle Breaker Earl knows the B2600 trucks extremely well, I'm sure that he will stumble upon this thread sometime soon.

A little bit of spacing/paragraphs would help out a bit with readability, not trying to be mean just commenting.

What all do you have wrong with your truck right now? Valve lash noise? timing issue? leak somewhere?

Ha Ha! Fun stuff huh?
I know where your coming from man.
How many miles are on the engine? After a lot of miles, those tiny oil passages in the rockers just get gunked up and you have to completely disassemble the valvetrain and clean it all real good. I guess you put in new HLA's right? The old used ones will get worn tips when they've been oil starved for a long time.
I have low miles on my 1991 B2600i 2WD truck but the previous owner must have overheated it or tried to adjust the timing chain and screwed up the head........they purchased a new head, put it on, didn't have the timing chain set up right, but fired it up anyway and bent all 4 exhaust valves........then got pissed and hauled it in for scrap metal...... I found it at the scrapyard before anyone got their hands on it, and bought it. Replaced the exhaust valves, got the timing chain on right, and checked it (by turning it over by hand first!!!), got it running good and it's my daily driver now!

The first thing I would do is try the Mobil 1 oil filter and new 10w30 conventional oil. See if that helps any.
I was having trouble with my HLA's after the truck sat for a day.......seems the oil would drain out of a couple lash adjusters and it would clack like heck for the first 10-15 miles or so, then quiet down.......until the next day! The Mobil 1 oil filter cured that! It no longer will clack after sitting, unless it is a week or two that it sits, but it also goes away a lot quicker than it did also.
The oil filter is twice the cost of the normal Fram or Purolator filters, but I'll never put a regular one on it again! It works THAT good on my truck! Also, I won't use Fram on any of my vehicles!

Does the oil light flicker on any more, or was it because the pickup tube screen was blocked with timing chain guide material/debris?

Here is a pic of the Mobil 1 oil filter I am using.....





I think this anti-drain back valve in the filter is the reason it helps keep the oil in the valvetrain overnight....actually, over the week!

The timings dead on balls (just got the chain cover back on),no leaks either.The only thing I can think of that would be creating the noise are the Valve Lashers.Somebody told me that the noise might be coming from the Conecting Rod Bearings,but I didnt check to make sure yet mostly cuz i've dealt with enuff bearing issue's in the past to know that once a bearings fails its only a matter of short time untill it all comes to a Halt.
Yes my oil light still flickers while at a warm idle & when ever I let off the accelerater pedal.
The miles are 147931.asa I get the cash Im going to buy that filter with some conventional (meaning synthetic right? i think.) oil that probly runs about $25.-$30. I figured buy now that I must have cleaned out the valve train 2 or 3 times.
I'll continue to update this thread or atleast check it every day till my "Brand new" lashers arrive in mail from parts dino saur.com

Conventional oil = regular oil.........

Synthetic oil = Synthetic oil......which is the high dollar stuff!

I would use conventional/regular oil.......NOT the high dollar stuff........the Mobil 1 oil filter will work just fine with conventional/regular oil in it........as a matter of fact, it won't even know the difference!

If your oil light is flickering, I would try to get a oil pressure gauge hooked up to your engine as quickly as possible so you can actually see how much oil pressure you have when it is idling and when your turning at cruising rpm. You should be able to remove the oil pressure sending unit (it's for the idiot light that's flickering) and install the plumbing for the gauge there.