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Mazda 2.6L \  1993 mazda b2600i no power

1993 mazda b2600i no power

Mazda 2.6L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 4
following 3
 
turnercaleb95   +1y
i have a 93 mazda b2600 i bought awhile back and it was running just fine then i started to buy stuff for it like new spectra air filter oil filter and oil spark plugs and i wanted to add a oil gauge but i couldnt find the oil pressure sender so i returned that and while looking for the oil pressure sender i though it was behind the distributor so i took that off to look behind and it and i put it back on and thats when i started to have problems no throttle response and it starts then dies really fast and when i get it too run it idles really low like 500rpm then i wait a few minutes and then it gets to 1000rpm so i changed the fuel filter and still the same problem.
i think the ECU is bad but i need some opinions i know the head gasket needs a new one it smokes bad i can drive it just takes forever to even get around the block and in doing so it just makes a weird sound like the 3rd piston is going out


any help with the throttle response and not starting and bad idle
geterdun   +1y
You took the distributor out? Did you take the cap off first, so you could put it back in with the rotor pointing to the same place it was pointing when you took it out? Did you spin the engine while you had it out? This would turn the camshaft gear so where you took it out is somewhere else.
The distributor gear is helical, so you have to start it in to the right (clockwise from) of where you want it to end up pointing, as it will turn counter-clockwise as you push it in.
Best guess, pull the distributor out, pull the plugs and turn the engine by hand (ease of turning) until the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with mark on the timing chain cover. Decide where the number one plug lead on the distributor cap is, mark the place on the distributor this would be above, with a marker. Slide the distributor in with it pointed at or as close after the mark on the distributor. Hopefully this will be in the center range of the distributor adjustment slots for the two bolts that hold it in place. Put plugs in and anything else you removed back on and start it. If it backfires, the distributor is one half turn of, Option 1 remove cap notice where the rotor is pointed, remove distributor turn rotor a half turn reassemble (be sure rotor is one half turn from where it was when you pulled it out this time), Option two: On the distributor cap, swap the plug leads across the cap. Move plug lead 1 to 4, 4 to 1 and 2 to 3, 3 to 2, same difference, start it, set timing, tighten down.
Two ways to take the guess work out of this setting timing:
WAY QUIET OFTEN DONE HERE
1] After you have the distributor marked where number one plug lead is at, have someone spin the engine with the starter, while you cover the number one spark plug hole with your finger. When you feel the pressure blow past your finger, that is compression stroke. So two revolutions will be compression stroke again. Stick a straw in the number one spark plug hole turn the engine by hand, second time the straw is pushed out is where you stop with the straw pushed out the furthest, timing marks will be aligned. That is top dead center, install distributor as discussed.
SHOP PREFERRED WAY NEXT
2] Pull valve cover off. Spin engine by hand until the timing mark on the pulley aligns with the timing mark on the cam chain cover AND all three valves on number one cylinder are up. Install distributor, start and time with a light.

After a night's rest, you said it ran fine before you pulled the distributor out, now runs poorly? The distributor may simply be needing to have the gear advanced one tooth in the cam gear. There is not enough adjustment range in the distributor holding bolts right? Pull the distributor cap off. Mark where the rotor button is pointed on the side of the distributor. Take the bolts holding the distributor in place out. Watch the rotor button as you slowly pull the distributor out (It will turn clockwise.). When it stops turning, stop pulling. Turn the rotor button slightly clockwise, if it hits something which prevents it turning, ease it out slowly until it starts to turn. At that point push it back in, it should hit a stop (the gear on the camshaft). Now turn it clockwise, keeping inward pressure on the distributor. When it starts to push in, you have turned it one tooth advanced in timing. Push it in, bolt down loosely (The rotor should be slightly clockwise from the point where you marked on the distributor it was before.), put the cap on and, hopefully start, set timing with light, enjoy, if all is right.


The oil pressure switch is under the intake, that is BELOW it. Only thing down there with a single wire on it, but not the starter.
turnercaleb95   +1y
i fixed it just the timing was off and it runs like it did before i dont have a timing gun so i did it by ear 100 dollars for them and dont really need it if i only doing this once and ill look for the oil pressure and but i got another problem im getting 10MPG like i was before
Cusser   +1y



$19.99

Remember in "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly" when Tuco was going to shoot Blondie in the desert, and Blondie said "do that and you'll always be poor" ??? Tuco took his advice, and you might be wise to take the advice above and get a timing light. Setting by ear is Gomer and Goober stuff.
geterdun   +1y
It works fine on a 8v power house in the '60's-'70's, not on struggling rock four cylinder, especially when you throw in a computer; bot. Develop a mechanic's aquainance into being a friend/beer drinkin buddy!
Okay, you have your assignment! Meet him and buy him lunch, just no benefits.
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