ECU help needed.

Hi guys, just picked up a 95 b2600i with a computer fault. I'm hoping someone here has a spare ecu lying around that they can open up and check the value of a resistor for me.

A previous owner has tried to repair or modify the ecu by replacing resistor r118, located in a line of resistors about half an inch in from the ECU plugs. The track has been damaged and I'm unsure of the resistors original value. If I can find out what it's supposed to be, I can replace the resistor correctly and run a link wire to the next component to bypass the crappy track.
It's the only damage on the board and the capacitors are yet to leak, so I'll be replacing them while I'm at it.

I've tried Google image search but can't find a detailed enough photo with the resistor in a readable position.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

OK, managed to find a readable image, but had to use a magnifying glass to read it. It's a 1w 3r9j, which is essentially a 1watt 3.9ohm resistor. I confirmed this by desoldering resistor r119 which is the same value resistor and tested it.

Whilst in there I replaced the 2 Rubicon capacitors, as they hadn't leaked yet and I'd rather replace them before they do.
The capacitors are 47uF 50v and 47uF 25v.

I also had to make a small bridge for r118, due to the previous owner damaging the socket and trace.

I then used circuit board solvent to do a final clean of the ECU board before i relacquered it and reassembled the ECU including replacing some missing screw's, the 2 corner screw's that earth the board were missing.

Engine starts and runs now which means I can get down to sorting our the rest of the previous owners mess. Thw Main earth strap needs to be repaired, alternator charge light is on, various bodgy wiring needs to be traced and removed or fixed.

pics?

What of? I honestly didn't think to take pics while I was doing it.
I can pull it again and take a few pics if there's anything in particular you want to see, no major job there.

Also, were you the guy who did a b2600i swap on a b2000?

I just figured that the capacitors are what usually fail, so it would be interesting to see a repair of different components. Not a big deal.

Yes, I am that guy.

Ah OK, no worries, I'll try and take a few photos in the not to distant future.
It's a shame the previous owner did such a poor job of attempting to repair it, it made it hard for me to know whether the damage to the trace and socket was the result of the failure or the repair... Yes, the repair was that bad.

As a side note, that particular value of resistor is also a point of failure in rx7 ECU's of a similar vintage.

Awesome "that guy" , would you mind me picking your brains a bit?

I'll answer any questions you have, to the best of my ability. Fire at will
.

Awesome, thanks much.

Other than the engine mounts, is there any other fabrication necessary? Tail shaft wise both mine are 2 piece so modding the tailshaft shouldn't be needed?
Looking at the heater hose, in pretty sure I can use a moulded hose so u don't need to swap cores and mod the fire wall.

The wiring side of things isn't a big drama to me, in looking at using aftermarket management because I'm looking at making it a b2600i-T

My other train of thought is to compare cab mounts between dual cab and extra cab and just cab swap, if I've only got to move a couple of cab mounts as opposed to moving a couple of engine mounts it may not be a bad option and would allow me to do a full clean up of the frame as well as a frame mod or two.

You lost me here... Are you going from double cab to cab plus? Or the other way around? Either way, you only need to move the rear cab mounts. Set the new cab down on the front mounts, and you'll have the new location for the rear mounts. From the doors forward, all the location points should be the same, regardless of cab type or engine option, so this shouldn't affect the engine mount location.


Now I have a question for you. If you have access to a double cab, will you take pictures of the door pillar between the front and rear doors? Including where the hinges attach? All angles and many, many pictures, please. If you can do this, I'll pm my email address.

Thanks heaps for getting back to me with all that!

Well, im now undecided whether to swap the driveline to my cab and chassis or swap my cab to the other chassis and leave the driveline in place. I'll measure and inspect a few things and see what works best/ easiest.

The wiring won't be a major drama to me either way, but before I go to far, I've got to unpick the previous owners flying spaghetti monster to get myself a better starting point.

I'll have a closer look at the heater hose situation, but it doesn't look like I'm going to have as much issue as you did.

Sorry if I didn't make sense, I have a cab plus, 85 + b2000 (badged as ford courier) and just purchased a double/dual/crew cab b2600i (again badged as ford courier).
I want to keep my cab plus due to the tub being a better size. Stretching the dual cab chasis and putting a cab plus tub on it has crossed my mind, but Linda prefer the cab plus look, they're much rarer than double cabs in Australia.

Yeah, I can take some happy snaps for you. Also, here's a fun fact, the rear door glass hass to be installed and removed via a cut out in the bottom of the door.... As I figured out after nearly an hour of trying every conceivable position to get the damn thing in.

There's a few turbo 2600i's out there. There's a nice one from puerto Rico that id love to get more details on." target="_blank