Shackles instead of blocks?

So I'm thinking of raising up my 26i a little, (maybe and inch or 2) by twisting the torsion bars a bit, however for the rear, I'm looking into doing taller leaf shackles instead of blocks. I'm not a fan of blocks just in my opinion and think the shackles may be easier, besides I'm going to replace the bushings anyway. So my question is, does anyone know of anybody that makes shackles for B's, or another one that would work from a Yota for example?

I can't name any off the top of my head but depending on your tools, you could make some inexpensively since it's a simple part.

That thought crossed my mind, they are simple. But I do not have metal working ability in my garage... aka lack of cutting and welder. Would have to use someone else's shop or have some make some for me. Still a possibility tho

Shackles are incredibly easy to make, or there are universal premade shackle sides everywhere.

Keep in mind a few things though...

When you go to a longer shackle, it is better to connect the two sides together to make it more stable and stronger. Easiest way is to weld a piece of tubing between the two shackle sides, but since you said you don't have access to a welder, you can cut a piece of tube to length to fit between the shackle sides, and drill an extra hole in the middle of both shackle sides and put a bolt through to hold them together.

When you are using longer shackles to attain lift (or drop for that matter on tension shackle setups) for the desired lift amount, your shackles must be lengthened twice that amount. For example, if you want 1" of lift, you need 2" longer shackles. (of course this changes slightly in cases with offset spring pins, but it is a good rule of thumb).

In doing so you have created two new problems, 1. It points your pinion up, messing up your pinion angle and potentially creating vibrations and increasing wear on the u-joints. 2. It moves the axle slightly forward in the fender opening. 1. can be remedied using axle shims to point the pinion back down, 2. can be remedied by either redrilling the center pin hole further back (spring steel is hard to drill, and I don't like this method) or by using zero rates to offset the axle back farther. Zero rates are simply a 1" block (although you can make it whatever height you want) that bolt to the leaf pack using the stock center pin, and have their own center pin in the zero rate offset however far you need it to recenter the axle. You can also mill an angle into the zero rate to fix issue 1. 2. isn't really a "problem", more of an aesthetics issue, although if it was to actually be offroaded, wheelbase is always an important factor, as well as it can affect the ride on road slightly.

All in all, blocks are a smarter, cheaper, and easier option for just a couple inches.

With that said, the truck in my sig has a shackle flip on the rear, where I went from a tension to a compression shackle setup, essentially dropping the rear of the leaf spring 8", the same idea as you bolting on 8" longer shackles for 4" of lift in the rear. I needed a 8* shim to correct the pinion angle and 1.25" offset to move the axle back.

IF YOU ARE stock 4X4:
in comparison to amount of lift you can possibly get out of the front just by cranking the torsion bars up/re-indexing them (limited by the axles), you wouldn't need more than a 1" larger block to match the max front height.

IF YOU ARE 2wd: then you will have to redesign the front suspension to match what you can get out of the back just by putting the leafs on top of the axle, and no more than 1 or 2" blocks...

Thank you GCncsuHD thats some good info to keep in mind. Not sure when I'm going to do this yet but this gives me better idea when come time for that. I gotta get the truck back from the trans shop first tho! I want it to sit about the same height my 00 Jeep GC was with a 2-1/2" lift with 31's