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Mazda Lifting Static \ 1993 Mazda B2600i 4x4 Body lift install1993 Mazda B2600i 4x4 Body lift install
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anguswilly
+1y
OK, I have searched high and low and never found anything on google that shows a B2600i 4x4 body lift install so I thought I would add my experience.
I have previously done a body lift on a 2001 ranger and a 2002 tacoma double cab so I figured this would be much easier since it is a simple truck - and so far it is.
I ordered the performance accessories 7003 which is sometimes only listed for 2WD but after calling them, they assured me it works, I also know that all the cabs and beds swap around so I figured no problem (I'll get to the issues later)
First thing I noticed about the kit is that the lift blocks are all the small ones ( less than 2" diameter) that are usually only supplied for the bed - this worried me a bit, but I remembered that between the 2 kits I bought before, I had 4 of the bigger blocks (about 3" diameter) just sitting around - I decided (after checking the fit) to use those for the middle and rear cab mounts.
My truck is fairly clean but the bolts looked a bit rusty, I was worried but did not run into any trouble. (liquid wrench is my friend)
First thing I knew was that the rear cab bolts were hard to get to, so I decided to cheat a little.
I removed the nuts from under the truck off all the cab mounts and pushed the blots up (the stock bolts are short, like 1-2".
Then I pulled the front bumper bolts but left the bumper on, thinking it would lift with the body - THIS WAS A MISTAKE.
After checking all wiring and lines that were going to be and issue were free, I proceeded to lift one side of the cab using y 2 post lift like I have before - the issue here was I put a 2x4 on the pick weld and my rocker is already a bit messed up on that side, since I was by myself, I had to lift a bit, check everything, lift a bit and so-on - WELL the pinch weld started to buckle ( I guess one day I might fix it) but it is going to be a trail truck and I might build/buy some nerf bars that might hide that
I have previously done a body lift on a 2001 ranger and a 2002 tacoma double cab so I figured this would be much easier since it is a simple truck - and so far it is.
I ordered the performance accessories 7003 which is sometimes only listed for 2WD but after calling them, they assured me it works, I also know that all the cabs and beds swap around so I figured no problem (I'll get to the issues later)
First thing I noticed about the kit is that the lift blocks are all the small ones ( less than 2" diameter) that are usually only supplied for the bed - this worried me a bit, but I remembered that between the 2 kits I bought before, I had 4 of the bigger blocks (about 3" diameter) just sitting around - I decided (after checking the fit) to use those for the middle and rear cab mounts.
My truck is fairly clean but the bolts looked a bit rusty, I was worried but did not run into any trouble. (liquid wrench is my friend)
First thing I knew was that the rear cab bolts were hard to get to, so I decided to cheat a little.
I removed the nuts from under the truck off all the cab mounts and pushed the blots up (the stock bolts are short, like 1-2".
Then I pulled the front bumper bolts but left the bumper on, thinking it would lift with the body - THIS WAS A MISTAKE.
After checking all wiring and lines that were going to be and issue were free, I proceeded to lift one side of the cab using y 2 post lift like I have before - the issue here was I put a 2x4 on the pick weld and my rocker is already a bit messed up on that side, since I was by myself, I had to lift a bit, check everything, lift a bit and so-on - WELL the pinch weld started to buckle ( I guess one day I might fix it) but it is going to be a trail truck and I might build/buy some nerf bars that might hide that
Post was last edited on Mar 04, 2014 07:03. This post has been edited 1
times.
anguswilly
+1y
Here are pics of the front bumper issues, as you can see the bumper holes in the rad support are now blocked by the rad flanges.
anguswilly
+1y
Yeah but then I gotta deal with the fan shroud (if I did an electric fan it would work) or delete it which I wouldn't want.
Yeah but then I gotta deal with the fan shroud (if I did an electric fan it would work) or delete it which I wouldn't want.
Post was last edited on Mar 03, 2014 11:03. This post has been edited 1
times.
anguswilly
+1y
OK, so today I got pretty far along.
Finished off the bed without incident - I did have to shim a couple mounts because there was always some issue with the bed being out of level a tiny bit, no idea if that is the result of an old accident or what. I do still have to tack weld the steel spacers in and I will eventually make some gap guards to cover up the gap between the frame and bed.
I still need to figure out how to mount the front bumper, I think I can chop the mounts to clear the rad.
The rear bumper, I think I will just leave alone ( the kit does not include rear brackets and the kits that do have rear brackets do state that you cannot ever tow with the bumper) I will put a pair of the rubber delete caps that I have in there since the bumper slots are exposed now.
I do still have to mess with the shifters, the T-case shifter is just plain too short - I had to remove it and bend it in the vice over to the right a little to clear the floor and console - it will now need an extension made that kicks it back over to the left, so it clears the tranny shifter - The tranny shifter is (obviously) 3" shorter now and I think I like it like that, I only had to make a small cut in the floor to get reverse ( it did go into reverse but just barely hit the floor) I cut out the plastic plate for the boot and it seems to just clear (there is some minor rubbing within the rubber boot itself)
Still have not done the rear cab mount bolts
Finished off the bed without incident - I did have to shim a couple mounts because there was always some issue with the bed being out of level a tiny bit, no idea if that is the result of an old accident or what. I do still have to tack weld the steel spacers in and I will eventually make some gap guards to cover up the gap between the frame and bed.
I still need to figure out how to mount the front bumper, I think I can chop the mounts to clear the rad.
The rear bumper, I think I will just leave alone ( the kit does not include rear brackets and the kits that do have rear brackets do state that you cannot ever tow with the bumper) I will put a pair of the rubber delete caps that I have in there since the bumper slots are exposed now.
I do still have to mess with the shifters, the T-case shifter is just plain too short - I had to remove it and bend it in the vice over to the right a little to clear the floor and console - it will now need an extension made that kicks it back over to the left, so it clears the tranny shifter - The tranny shifter is (obviously) 3" shorter now and I think I like it like that, I only had to make a small cut in the floor to get reverse ( it did go into reverse but just barely hit the floor) I cut out the plastic plate for the boot and it seems to just clear (there is some minor rubbing within the rubber boot itself)
Still have not done the rear cab mount bolts
anguswilly
+1y
It's kinda strange to see the 4x4 parked back to back with my B22 - the difference in height makes them look like two completely different trucks.
anguswilly
+1y
Fully lifted, one more day of working on it and I should be wheelin'
I do have to install the RX8 LSD I bought in the rear and considering welding the front diff.
I do have to install the RX8 LSD I bought in the rear and considering welding the front diff.
anguswilly
+1y
OK - so today after work, my only objective was to get the cab mounts all done. As I have said, I feared these rear bolts, I have heard they are a bitch and I could not find them at first
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