rear link setup question..

so still in the planning stage, but deciding on the rear link setup, i have a couple diffrent ideas just some input would be great!

i wanna keep the fuel tank in the stock location, and raise it as much as i can. so i can drag safely.

first question, in a nut shell- when runnin a parallel 4 link set up, and runnin a panhard bar, im assuming it changes your rear axles lateral position... is the change (when bars are set up properly of corse) enough to matter? i just see the panhard pushing the axle when its layed out.
second part to that question... its a 4000lb truck, is a bar absolutely needed... ? like could use say a shock set up to help hold the axle centered? i know in say performance/heavy applications a panhard bar is damn near required, just curious.

second question- regular ole, in-front-of-axle, triangulated 4 link, how are u guys getting around the tank? if the tank is left in stock location? or has it even been done?, only way i can this is by modifying the right hand bar to clear the tank, then would have a 4link thats more of a whisbone set up. but would still have the benifits of 4link and not have the issue of hitting sides on a 3link and binding the piss outta the front bushing.

It won't change it a lot, you could also run a Watts link so you wouldn't have to worry about it. Also when you set it up center it in the laid out position.

I'm going to say yes it's required, it's not high performance but it does have some weight and will move on you going down the road.

Only way I've seen people get around the tank running a link set up is with a wishbone 3 link which in my opinion would be better for you because you could omit the panhard bar/watts link. The way most people set up a triangulated 4 link is wrong in my opinion because it binds at the bushing, and not really good for an adjustable suspension vehicle. I'm sure you know what I mean you've seen set ups where the end link isn't perpendicular with the frame rails.

You will get the benefits of the 4 link, for doing sides add a Johnny-joint by Currie enterprises end link to the 3 link where it mounds to the axle. Trust me those end links give you a lot of flex. I need to dig up some pics I took.

Found it, this is really old from 2004 LOL

This is to show flex, I never hooked up valves to do side to side so to get this much side to side is possible with enough PSI.

Thanks for the reply man. Yea a 3link is seeming more and more realistic for my setup. I in no way shape or form wanna half ass the set up. Just not trying to get all crazy with a tube Bender lol....I do like the paralell 4 link though. Really damn simple. Panhard can't bethat big a deal. Seems ya don't see paralell all that often

No problem, yeah I would go 3 link, panhard is easy to set up but either way you need something to keep the axle in place if you decide to go with the parallel. I regret that I did the set up on that truck while driving it daily but decided to redo the frame anyway

I too am thinking of doing the parallel 4 link from QAR, it looks like a weld and go setup perfect for this noob but what are the cons to it? Sadistic has a sick Mazda 3 link setup, he said he can make one that will do side to side too.

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Check out GuiltyByDesign.net in the vendor section too. Last I heard he was making a 3 link kit too but I don't know if he's done yet.

Baha. U regret running a paralel. On ur DD?? Or u talking a difrent set up?

Like im not trying to cut corners. But damn a parallel set up seems just about fool proof... eather way I end up going will be done 100% proper. Cause I can't stand hacked/sketchy shit. I just want the thing trouble function ya know. Nothin crazy for now anyways

Sounds like you are doing it right by planning. I regret doing it while driving it daily, I was a poor college student.

The set up you use is also going to be dependent on your wheel choice. I've seen parrallel link set ups step out as much as an inch and a half, and that was only a bag on axle set up (bag on bar allows more lift and subsequently more side to side movement. You need to make sure your wheels and tires will not hit your bed at any given point. I know some guys run some big ass rims with tight clearness.

A 3 link wishbone will be the easiest by far to achieve your goals. No axle step out no hiring the tank, if done properly can side to side all day. Four link needs to be triangular unless you're a straight line driver. 90% of triangular set ups aren't set up any way and introduce binding and will eat up bushings. I highly suggest a 3 link wishbone set up. It is most likely what I will do for the very same reasons I mentioned if I ever get to that point.