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Mazda Engine Performance \  Ideas for low compression turbo 2.2 build... Lets discuss

Ideas for low compression turbo 2.2 build... Lets discuss

Mazda Engine Performance Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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selfbuiltrods   +1y
Today, I've been researching on what all it would take to build a low compression turbo 2.2 for fuel economy. The first thing I looked into was stand alone engine management. AEM EMS-4 is what I have my eye on.

The only thing I cant pin down is the fact that the unit needs crank and cam hall inputs, and knock sensor input, and I don't know where I would get those feeds from with no cam, crank, or knock sensors. Everything else I have figured out, such as VSS, MAP, and TPS feeds.

I plan on building my intake to accept a 90mm billet throttle body using an infinity TPS sensor, and my header around proper tuning specs and flow ratings. Not sure on injectors yet (I think the 50 lb ford injectors may be a wee bit too big), but I plan on using AEM's cdi pencil coils with their 4 channel coil driver.

I was wondering about cam swaps, piston, and rod options, and the benefits of studding the motor instead of using bolts.

I wasn't sure how popular this thread would be, but I figured it'd be worth a shot at a good discussion. Any ideas, suggestions, experiences are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
jenko   +1y
Wait what now?
What compression is yours currently?
Mine is sucky 8.6 to 1 as I imagine yours is.
You can run more boost in that ratio than the engine can handle so I imagine lowering compression isn't a worry.
Or do you mean low boost turbo?

If so you'll want a smaller TB than 90mm.... that's gigantic!
If you want fuel economy etc it's better to keep a bit of speed up in your incoming charge as you'll be running low rpms and having a large TB is about nothing much getting in the way at high rpms (well, it's all just IMO).

Feeds: "Unit NEEDS" it probably doesn't need them all.
If it has cam then it has crank.
You don't "need" a knock sensor if you keep things safe in the timing and fuel.
Unless it automatically advances the timing etc (as it'll do that constantly and keep bouncing it off the knock boundary)
Is your car currently injected?
If so then it'll have some outputs (I just don't know what they are on an injected b)
If you don't, then the easiest way is to do what I'm doing, put a trigger wheel on the crank and use "waste spark" and "batch injection". These do not affect the fuel economy so they're suitable for you based on what you're aiming for.
Google them.

If you want to tune it on the road you'll need a wideband O2 sensor and controller. (shit, I still haven't ordered mine!)

I'm interested in your build so keep posting!

Oh and... what sort of turbo?
selfbuiltrods   +1y
Awesome info! I had no idea that the B motors were so low on compression, so that's great! 4-6 lbs. normally, 8 lbs max.

Here's the basic idea of the TB...



I just found this, so it solves my cam and crank issue...



There are a TON of one wire knock senors out there, so besides finding the ideal location for one on the 2.2, that problem is also solved!

I'm starting with a non injected 2.2. Building an aluminum intake manifold to accept Honda 2.2 injects, fuel rail, etc. I need the front mount style TB/intake combo, due to hood clearance issue because the truck is not only body dropped, but is getting a "strut rod" if you will, with horizontally mounted cantilever shocks.

The only question i'm having right now about the "coil on plug" design is that normally the pencil style honda coils are supported by the valve cover... I guess in order for me to use them on the B, I'd have to make a "coil rail"?

This is all just an idea right now. Not really interested in "on the fly" tuning as of yet.

I would like to know more about what your building! You seem to have some ideas about this stuff.
jenko   +1y
I love all of those things that you've posted!
That's a sexy looking and more sensible sized tb.
Note on the crank sensor that it says it's suitable for waste spark set up which is what I was talking a little about, also batch injection. But this would be ideal run in conjunction with a cam position sensor,which only tells you the cams position once in a cam cycle and not the degrees throughout the cams cycle. But with that 24-1 thing you can calculate the rest from that. I think it's a great idea, if I ever end up with liquid lpg injection I'll need it!

Something to support the cop set up sounds like a good idea, love the intake idea too

Search for fe dohc Jdm on here and you,ll see my painful progress! Lol. Building the computer for it so learning along the way... Sigh, not enough time!

Actually look at the guys with Kia builds as well, if you're going through all the work, perhaps the Kia is a good idea, especially in the economy stakes, very good head design. Same block as the fe, though the head is a little taller... Hmmm... B2600 bubble bonnet? Hmmm..... Then again it might fit in any regard.

Yes! more engine builds!!!
selfbuiltrods   +1y
Are the b series motors 24 & 1 pattern? That is the only thing left to figure out, and I can start getting a budget together. It seems that running the puck with a GM one wire knock sensor in the middle of the block, and i'm golden.

I do not envy your computer adventure lol! I love it! Where'd you get your velocity stacks for your intake, and what are the pros of having them?

I'm a factory bonnet type fella. Ive already lowered my motor to where the oil pan only sit .5" above the crossmember. Im not scared to build a one off oil pan to go even lower! Dry sump oil filter setup FTW lol!
1hotdawg   +1y
Could you not just purchase a JDM 626 Turbo engine and make an intake adapter for a whole lots less than what you're putting into this? You can get them for less than a grand shipped, and you've got all the factory electronics with it. That or the Kia swap would probably be best imo. Both give you 140-165hp from the get go with factory built engines to handle the power.
selfbuiltrods   +1y


You got to it before I did! Upon further searching, I did stumble upon the Kia swap info, called a local pick n pull... scored a running 2.0 for $150. I still want to run the stand alone, custom intake, billet throttle body, and instead of the custom header, use of the miata turbo manifold!

Much cheaper way to go since the Kia motor already has all the needed sensors for the EMS-4.

Thank you for pointing that out!
1hotdawg   +1y
No problem bro. Glad you found what you needed. Almost wish I had gone the Kia route my self. May still one day, who knows.
jenko   +1y


The b probably has an optical disk for it's timing so a slot pattern in the disk, not teeth like 24-1 now that I think on it.
But that doesn't matter as it seems like the KIA is making all the right noises in your head

I had my stacks spun, I'm a bike guy and they've all (well... the ones I have are sports bikes) got stacks.
They're better for air flow, the main reason being is that they smooth out the entrance of air to the runner by negating eddies, low pressure zones and air flows slowest over a surface so the further from center of the intake diameter you can sort out your air flow drama the better (a little like a golf ball... well... sort of, air/air better than air/material for resistance).
It's sort of like a rocket nozzle in reverse.
Oh and they look cool! hahaha
selfbuiltrods   +1y


Sweet! How could I get a hold of some?!