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Mazda Engine Performance Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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rharrison295   +1y
Alright you guys so I have a 91 just did the head gasket on. Now I go to start it up and it will lite and idle for a second and die..... I put a new fuel pump new cap wires and plugs help please I for nothing
91_2600i   +1y
What model and year truck? If B2200, carb'd or injected?
Cusser   +1y
Yeah: more information would sure help.

If a B2600i, was the distributor rotor pointing the correct way (it can go on three different ways, not great engineering)?

B2600i or B2200: Check and re-check the spark plug wire locations on the distributor/cylinder head.

Was the distributor re-installed in the correct orientation, and the ignition timed?

How's that camshaft timing (timing belt) orientation, since you had the cylinder head off?

Did you try to prime the engine with aerosol starting fluid a few times to see if it runs a few seconds? That can help determine whether the issue is spark-related or fuel-related.
rharrison295   +1y
It is fuel injected. I did pull the distributor that is one issue that I have seen the repair manual that I have says for orent the two dots on the distributor making sure they don't move witch is next to impossible. I've also tryied all for possible locations for the rotor. Seriously has me baffled.
rharrison295   +1y
The timing marks all line up I did spray some brake cleaner in the throttle body and made no diferance it will run for approx 15-20 seconds and the just die.
91_2600i   +1y
Here is one possible cause. On your fuel pump relay (behind left kick panel), it has two coils to close the switch and turn your fuel pump on. One is the normal coil that closes when the engine is running (KEY ON and has RPM above 50 or so) and the other closes the relay while you are starting - energized by the start circuit. So it's possible that the one coil is bad but the start circuit coil is good. In this scenario, you would have the fuel pump running and pressurizing while starting but the fuel pump would turn off as soon as you released the key from the start position... in which case the engine would die down and stall as the fuel pressure was depleted.

So, and easy test for this would be to jumper the yellow two connecter terminal near the wiper motor (also bundled right there with the green test connecter. When you jumper this connector, and then turn the key to ON, it should power the fuel manually. You can go around and remove the gas cap and listen for the pump. If you can't hear it running through the filler neck, then you might have a bad relay. Yellow to terminal connecter jumpered to itself and key "ON."

Since you weren't having this problem before, it would be awful coincidental that the relay started giving up at the same time as your head gasket job. But stranger things have happened.

The starting and dying (before it even warms up) sounds like fuel starvation. Did you check or replace the fuel filter? Does it slowly sputter down during the 15-20 seconds, or does it die suddenly?

When it does run, does it seem to run normally or smoothly? If so, the you are probably ok on the timing.

Have you tried to keep it running by continuing to give it a shot of starting fluid beyond the 20 seconds?

Did you make sure sure and connect all the grounds when putting it back together?
rharrison295   +1y
It seems to runn pretty smooth to me and starter fluid does nothing but make it die faster
rharrison295   +1y
Alright so I got it to run. The idle is real sperattic almost like it has a vaccume leak but idle doesn't change when I spray around the intake with starter fluid like it has one. And still falls right on its face when I give it any kind of gas..... All the grounds are connected and have good continuity to ground all throughout the engine and body grounds.... The fuel pump runs although I did not just that connector. I can disconnect the distributor with the keys on and feel the fuel through the filter, that was replace.
scotch   +1y
Have you let it (or will it) run long enough to warms up or operating temperature? If so, doesn't it run any different? If no, you might give that a try.

Also, try unplugging the IAC connecter. If you are not familiar, it's the box that is bolted on to the back side of the throttle body assembly (89-90) and on the top of the assembly (90-93). Just follow the harness coming out of it and unplug it and see if it runs any different.

Also, have you checked the operation of the PCV valve?

Check for engine codes?
Ground single green connector plug near wiper motor and then turn the key to "ON" but don't start it. Watch for the check engine light to start flashing. If it does, make a note of how many long and how many short flashes.

You installed new wires. Did you double check they are firmly pushed onto the plugs, distributor cap, & coil? Did you double check they are going to the right spark plugs and that you don't have two wires crossed. Firing order is 1-3-4-2 (B2600i). The number 1 wire should be plugged into the 9:00 position on the distributor. After checking all those, try pulling one wire off the plug and hold it near the plug or near the cylinder head and see if there is a change in the idle or smoothness of the engine. Repeat with each plug wire.

Double check your part number for the cap & rotor.

If your truck a B2200 or B2600i?

Anything else you had apart while doing the gasket?
rharrison295   +1y
My truck is a 2200 and I had the whole motor pulled out of it. When I got it I assumed it was blown but pulled the head and found it just had a blown head gasket and sat with coolant in the cylinder so I checked end play and for war page sent a hone in the cylinders and put it back together.