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Mazda Engine Performance \  Check engines on and sputters

Check engines on and sputters

Mazda Engine Performance Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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julian   +1y

1990 b2200 fuel injected. Died on me, would start and die- ended up being the ECM. Replaced with remanufactured one. Now check engine light is on, runs ok but pretty rich, and any amount of throttle you give it, as soon as its steady, the engine starts to spudder/hesitate. Not sure if it could be a faulty computer I was given, or the throttle position sensor, O2, ignition module in distributor, or clogged cat... Wanted to see the EGR, but from what I understand, this specific engine doesn't have one? How do you check the code, and how do you clear it? Typically there are connectors under the drivers dash, but this one doesn't have them there. Almost doesn't compare to previous trucks. Is there a special spot they could have put them on this one? Also to add to that, when starting, it will die if every time if i crank over immediately, but if i turn ignition on, wait for ABS light to turn off and hear the click, then crank it, it fires up.
spacemonkee23   +1y
The check engine light is a "flash code" type... Here is a link to the procedure on e how... I have a 92 EFI b2200 that I used this on before, should work on yours.



Let me know if this works for you.
julian   +1y
Ok, I can't seem to find the tester box, could you please give me a location and or picture on that?

Thanks!
spacemonkee23   +1y
Sorry for the late response, I seemed to have posted a solution that I didn't completely read through... sorry about that, the wire you have to ground out to get the codes to flash is the green test connector on the passenger side engine bay near the firewall, I believe it is the same connector that you have to ground to set proper timing on EFI engines.

here is a quick diagram of it.

thread post photo


Make sure the engine is warmed up before you test it.

CHECKING CODES
1. Using jumper wire, ground (Green) 1-pin connector. Connector is located above right side front wheel well.
2. With ignition on and engine stopped, observe "CHECK ENGINE" or MIL light. Note trouble codes. Check TROUBLE CODE IDENTIFICATION table for possible cause. If light remains on continuously, MIL light circuit is grounded or ECU is defective. If "CHECK ENGINE" or MIL light light is not flashing, no codes stored

CLEARING CODES
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Depress brake pedal for at least 5 seconds. Reconnect battery cable.
2. Ground test connector with jumper wire. Turn ignition on, but do not start engine for 6 seconds.
3. Start engine and run at 2000 RPM for 2 minutes. Verify no codes are displayed.


If the MIL stays on and no DTC are available, unplug the ECU and turn ignition switch ON. If the MIL is still showing, you need to check for shorting(grounded wire) from instrument panel to ECU, Yellow/White (OR LT Green/White) wire.
spacemonkee23   +1y
And here is a link to the code identifier. " target="_blank

A long flash will be for a "10" short flash for "1", eg. code "25" will be two long followed by five short flashes. The ecm will continue to flash until all codes are displayed and then start the sequence again. Each code will be 2 digits.

Here is a link to one of the pages with a little info on the ECM (" target="_blank). There is a common problem with the capacitors leaking and corroding circuits on these B's. There is a thread on here that explains how to fix it.

And if you find that the ECM has corrosion here is the thread for that (mentioned above)... " target="_blank

I understand you said you replaced with a remand ECU it but check the thread above and look how some of the "remand" ECUs turned out, some sloppy work done to them... Don't trust "new-ish" parts.

Hope this helps you find your problem! Good luck.
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