removing emissions on a B2000

Ive been searching for a write-up on removing the emissions on an 87 B2000. What all do i need to remove, and what do i do about those metal tubes coming from under the exhaust manifold? Truck sat up for two years before the previous owner started it up to sale it, it looks like it has a new/rebuilt head. He also did a half ass tune-up, changed the plugs but not the wires, which i just did a few minutes ago. Truck runs so much better, even though i removed the breather to install a return spring on the carb, and to inspect it.(btw its dirty as hell.) So even with the rubber tubes open on the egr, and a few vacuum leaks from not hooking up the breather pan, the truck ran so much better. Blew some blue smoke out the rusted and falling apart muffler, but it cleared up and actually had passing power! So i think its time to remove the egr!

Ok, after it cooled off the truck ran like ass, kept stuttering and with each gear change it ran worse, had to keep it in the rpms for it to run. Pulled over and my damn coil was loose. Tightened it up and it ran better, but then started running rough again. Swapped the coil end over end and pulled some of the ignitor wire out some for a better connection, and it ran better again..

ignitior is going bad or you still have a vacuum leak

Actually, i noticed that the distributor caps center coil piece is missing the little metal sleeve for the wire to get a good connection. So unless the wire is placed as far back as possible, its not getting enough fire. I removed the emissions box from the air filter and took it apart, saw a couple bugs inside.... and it seems the p.o had issues with is before as well and used gasket maker to seal it up. Ive cleaned it thoroughly, but i also used my engineering ingenuity (see what i did there!) to temporarily fix the vacuum leaks until i get the time to sort through the clusterf--k that is under the carb. I may just go ahead and remove the entire emissions set-up and have my friend whose been messing with cars since the 50's tune the carb to run without all that mess. So as an over-glorified fuel leak (carb) newb what all do i need to get rid of in relation to vacuum lines to run it as carb only?

If you want to simplify your truck I recommend going to a weber 32/36 or holley 5200. only 2 vacuum lines on the engine and very few wires.

what can i get rid of in the form of vacuum lines? think im going to convert it to straight carb and remove the ecm. i have a friend who can adjust the carb for me to run better. im also going to use the stock carb for awhile.

im going to swap in a weber 32/36 as soon as i get the change for it.

thanks

If you swap to Weber carb (32/36 DGEV is what I've run on mine for a decade) all you need is vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance. I have removed the "three tubes" (PAIR tubes) on mine, used capped wheel lug nuts for the four ports on the exhaust manifold, made a block off plate from a rectangular piece of steel (drilled two holes in that) as a lower block-off. If a 5-speed with mechanical fuel pump, you do not need a fuel pump regulator either. My Weber works fine with my truck's AC and its aftermarket cruise control too.

You need to Search for my Weber install hints too, either on this site or on MazdaTrucking.com. Stuff like sanding the adapter surfaces perfectly straight on a piece of glass to prevent vacuum leaks, adding a stronger return spring, etc. Hopefully the kits have been re-engineered these days to minimize such problems. Mine was also missing the tiniest of tiny cotter pins to connect two linkage parts, I had to fix that, was visually obvious - once I looked closer.