I recently started a thread asking about the probe gt turbos and manifold. there was very little info to be found about doing this upgrade, so I thought I would try to document my build to maybe help someone else.
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notice here is the factory dip stick location it has to be rotated towards the front of the truck to clear the turbo
like this
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I had to turn the water inlet/outlet 90* so they would point forward instead of at the firewall
fitting I used for the oil inlet -3 to 1/8" npt
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lines installed, a lot easier to do it off the truck. water lines are 7/16" oil drain is 1/2"
waste gate touches the metal water tube for the lower radiator hose. I simply took a small hammer and dented the tube. I don't believe it will hurt anything
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firewall clearance. I used a 48mm cone airfilter made for a motorcycle.
ran out of clamps for the piping, hopefully I will have every thing finished tomorrow. don't mind the vacuum lines plugged off with screws and bolts. they was just temporary and are now replaced with caps.
cool. Hopefully I am picking mine up this weekend. I'll post pick on my build when I get there. Won't be installed until it gets warmer. I has no warm garage.
I have built a few of these back in the day, as I said before my current one has a Garrett and custom manifold etc.
One thing I see is you could have avoided the tee in the oil pressure line by using the current oil sender hole to feed the turbo and the one that is plugged right above the oil filter for the sender (this is how the factory F2T is) I also would consider a braided oil line, the hard line can crack with use (ask me how I know) Get a 90 on the turbo end so you can get it away from the manifold.
Instead of denting the coolant line I used heater hose to re-route it.
It could pay to use aluminum bends to fab an intake pipe so you can put the filter up top somewhere.
It will be interesting to see how you route the exhaust (down pipe) I had to cut up my motor mount as I remember - I used a urethane mount off something else.
Good work so far
Maybe buy a bead roller or at least use hairspray on silicone couplers.
thanks for the advice, I tried to move that metal coolant line and couldn't get it to budge. how did you move yours just cut the metal out and put in a rubber hose? and all the intercooler pipes have beads around the ends.
So you have a Weber or Holley it looks like? Is it a Weber 32/36? I was thinking of doing a blow-through setup on mine some day down the road with a little Garrett T25 that I have sitting around. In looking at some info, it appears about 5 psi should be okay with no mods to the Weber 32/36.
I'm interested to see how this goes for you. I hope ya shred rubber!
I have a weber 32/36 I drove the truck tonight and boosted around 7-8 psi no problems. but it will not hold 7 or 8 psi becauce the factory mechanical fuel pump becomes too weak. it will hold 5 psi no problems at all. the weber is completely stock. I did turn the mixture screw out approx. 2.75 turns
didn't have to modify the motor mount for the down pipe. I was expecting too but finally got it just right. the truck drove great and had a very noticeable power difference. according to my A/F ratio gauge im running alittle rich at 5psi and less which is exactly what I was hoping for. over 5psi and it starts to run lean until the boost over rides the fuel pump. im looking into a fix for that. I got the carburetor hat from a company on ebay called "turbos r us" it was around $75. I am also using the weber adapter plate to run a normal aircleaner which allowed me to run the hat. more pictures tomorrow of everything cleaned up.
to be honest I have no clue what meth injection is. and cutting off the flange was the only way to get a downpipe even close to fitting with the factory mount. I know your not suppose to weld to cast but I seen no problem doing it just for exhaust piping.