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Mazda Engine General \ Mazda B200 smokes on start up, spits and sputters on take ofMazda B200 smokes on start up, spits and sputters on take of
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usnavy_perez
+1y
87 Mazda B200 5 Speed SR-5
The truck will smoke on start up pretty heavily for a minute or 2 while it's warming up. Even after letting it get to operating temperature, it will spit and sputter and ALMOST stall if I don't take off at high RPMs basically slipping the clutch. After driving it awhile the sputter at take off becomes much less noticeable.
Anyone experience similar problems? I changed the Valve Stem seals a couple weeks ago and still smokes. The truck is in mint condition, even has original R12 AC so I would like to to keep the engine, but it seems like swapping with something more practical would be the best choice!
The truck will smoke on start up pretty heavily for a minute or 2 while it's warming up. Even after letting it get to operating temperature, it will spit and sputter and ALMOST stall if I don't take off at high RPMs basically slipping the clutch. After driving it awhile the sputter at take off becomes much less noticeable.
Anyone experience similar problems? I changed the Valve Stem seals a couple weeks ago and still smokes. The truck is in mint condition, even has original R12 AC so I would like to to keep the engine, but it seems like swapping with something more practical would be the best choice!
emjay
+1y
sounds like carburetor issues to me. I was having similar experiences with mine, using a Weber 38. Turns out for me that I had a vacuum leak at the carburetor base plate.
Also check to make sure that your float is at the right position, if its a stock carb you should have a sight glass on the side of the carb.
Yours could also be that its sending in too much fuel and its flooding out.
If you do decide to get new engine (last resort) you can put your ac compressor to the side, keeping the charge alive.
Also check to make sure that your float is at the right position, if its a stock carb you should have a sight glass on the side of the carb.
Yours could also be that its sending in too much fuel and its flooding out.
If you do decide to get new engine (last resort) you can put your ac compressor to the side, keeping the charge alive.
usnavy_perez
+1y
Another issue I'm having is that the truck has always ran VERY hot. It has never over heated, and I habe never had to add coolant. I changed thermostat, fan clutch, flushed raditator. Do these trucks run hot?
Cusser
+1y
My '88 B2200 started running hot once it got like 175K and 20 years old. It did not lose coolant, had trouble on long freeway uphills in Arizona summer with AC on. I tried thermostat swap, chemical flush of radiator, made absolutely sure that all the air was bled out of the system (jacked up front, ran with cap off, topping off, for 20 minutes), no effect.
Then I fixed it. How? I purchased a brand-new 2-row radiator for it, replaced the old 1-row radiator, solved the issue immediately. I have the all-aluminum 2-row radiator from O'Reillys, 2-row was originally used on the automatic trucks, but will bolt right into the B2200 frame. Since mine was 5-speed, I did have to drill four holes in the radiator bracket. "New" fan shroud overlaid on the Murray 2-row radiator. Red arrows show Murray shroud mounting holes. Blue arrows show where I drilled my own 1/4 inch holes, so I can use 6.0mm x 1.0mm bolts/nuts.
My '88 B2200 started running hot once it got like 175K and 20 years old. It did not lose coolant, had trouble on long freeway uphills in Arizona summer with AC on. I tried thermostat swap, chemical flush of radiator, made absolutely sure that all the air was bled out of the system (jacked up front, ran with cap off, topping off, for 20 minutes), no effect.
Then I fixed it. How? I purchased a brand-new 2-row radiator for it, replaced the old 1-row radiator, solved the issue immediately. I have the all-aluminum 2-row radiator from O'Reillys, 2-row was originally used on the automatic trucks, but will bolt right into the B2200 frame. Since mine was 5-speed, I did have to drill four holes in the radiator bracket. "New" fan shroud overlaid on the Murray 2-row radiator. Red arrows show Murray shroud mounting holes. Blue arrows show where I drilled my own 1/4 inch holes, so I can use 6.0mm x 1.0mm bolts/nuts.
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