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Mazda Engine General \  smokes untill warm

smokes untill warm

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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following 7
 
totaleclipsetinting   +1y
I just bought a 93 carbed b2200 and it smokes (alot) till its warm. It has 190,000 mi on it. What needs replaced?
toddluck   +1y
does it go through any water??

the valve guides and seals need to be replaced if it uses any water prolly do a headgasket while your at it....
mazdarado   +1y
Mine does the same thing. Completely went through the head and it still does the same thing. It has alot more power now though. I guess I need rings. <--that's an understatement lol.

crazymikey   +1y
if it ends up not being the head being bad,you may have a broken piston ring.

my truck smoked like a whore,and I had the head rebuilt and it still smoked. When we tore down my bottom end,I had a hairline crack in a piston ring. When the truck started,it would smoke out an entire city block,but once it warmed up,the smoke would stop,as the piston ring heated up and expanded,cutting off the oil getting past it.

Mine also only had 80 000 miles on it when this happened.
lowballin   +1y
Could Be lots man.. Total rebuild dont touch head unless U need to.. Gaskets r spendy...

Its most likely the rings...



~B~
totaleclipsetinting   +1y
I did a compression test and from front to back this is what it read: 105 140 160 145
xulf13   +1y
You need rings man, a weekend job, and while you're at it send the head to a shop. You will need a head gasket set, ( $85) a ring kit ($75) while you're at it change your rod bearings if needed (another $65) with the head gasket kit, take the valve guide seals that come withit and take it to the shop along with your head so that they don't charge you extra for that. a decent shop will charge about $125 to $150 for the head work. So you're looking at $375 more or less.
mikeyc1945   +1y
With 190k and it's burning oil, it's definitely time for a rebuild. She's paid her dues.

Good advice above. You can drop the pan and pull the pistons without removing the engine. Check the motor mounts to make sure they're in good shape. Put her up on a set of ramps, block the rear wheels, remove the frame cross member, remove the steering link, and you're good to go.

You do need to make sure the cylinder bores are within tolerance. If not, a new set of standard rings won't do much good. You'll need to pull the block and have the cylinders bored to the next oversize.

You should also get some plastigauge and check the rod bearing clearances before replacing them. You may need to have the crank machined to the next set of oversize bearings. You'll need to pull the block for this as well.

While you're at it, be sure to check the cats to make sure they're not plugged up from all the oil burning. My top one was plugged up with carbon and I had to bore it out. I believe you can use a rosebud tip on an acetylene torch and cook it out as well.

Mine needed a complete rebuild. I got a first over rebuild kit from NAPA and went through it top to bottom. I eventually put a Weber 38 and PaceSetter header on it. Sure runs good now - better than new.

HTH
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