EZ engine swap?

And what is the difference between the different 350 engines in the context of size?
because checking Wikipeda:

The LT-1 version would probably be the best, allowing me to later on redo my suspension and all to be able to tow a very small 5th wheel.

I think.

I don't want to kill the poor thing.

Because the LT-1 is about 4.3x the power of the F2, so considering the stock can only tow a maximum of 2000lbs, 2000x4.3 is 8600lbs which should be the lowest max the LT-1 can tow.

As far as the size of the 350 you refer to, they're all the same block and external dimensions. GM developed the engine back in the '50s for the tri-5 chevys (55-56-57). The exact same engine design was used all the way to the late '90s in trucks and SUVs.

As far as year goes, i'd avoid the '70s. Due to smog regulations, the engines were all lame. As well, all engines before the '70s were designed to run on leaded fuel, which would mean would need new heads, or you'd need to get the stock heads machined for hardened valve seats, or you could destroy your valves.

The nicest thing about small block chevys, espcially 350s, is that you can get absolutely any performance part you want for them and you can build from 200hp all the way to 600hp without forced induction.

If you do end up going the route of the Small Block Chevy, you can really use any small block: 283, 302 (not the ford one), 327, 350, 383, 400 (they're all the same block, just with different bores and strokes)

Do not buy a 305 or 307, they are really lame.

As well, just because you have 4 times the power, doesn't mean you can tow four times as much. The frame and suspension of the truck can only handle so much weight. Even with 300hp+, with the stock frame you probably couldn't pull more than 3000lbs safely. If you wanna pull more, you need to brace the frame alot, put in a bigger axle, put in better leafs and torsion bars (you probably will never find heavy duty tosion bars) and so on.

It pains me to say this, cause i really love my b2200 as well, but you'd be better off buying a cheap older 1500 truck as a tow vehicle. You love your truck right, so you don't want to abuse it. Best of luck.

Yeah.
After thinking a bit, I realized that the Chevy engine is overkill. I'm mainly just using the B2200 as a commuter vehicle, with the occasional full load when transporting stuff. Over the summer I would be using it to tow a ~2000lb folding trailer and a ~2300lb sailboat, but that's pretty much the maximum.
So I'm thinking of just sticking with a Fseries engine that will fit under the hood with few modifications and tweaking.

So back to my original question:
How much work would be needed to swap in the Kia FE3 engine?

A LOT

sorry to kill your dreams man, as much as i love seeing a small block in a B, i didn't want you to be let down by the capabilities you end up with.

As far as an FE3 conversion, i have no idea. my uncle has had a couple Bs in his past, and one had an FE3 swap, but that was like 10 years ago. I know he said he really liked it and it sounded great, but i don't know where to start. best of luck.

That's OK.
Just that when I checked out the engine on Wikipedia and it said 300hp, I kinda went into a mental overload.

Like what?
If you mean as in because it is a Japanese vehicle, then yeah I'm factoring that in.
If you mean as in I would have to modify the engine in order to fit it under the hood without cutting into the firewall and I need to use MegaSquirt, then I would like to know.

No firewall cutting, no intake modifying, no Megasquirt (yet). No major fab work is required. The block bolts to the trans perfectly. The engine mounts bolt up perfectly too.

Kia engine will need Mazda oil pan and associated parts and Mazda engine mounts. Everything else on the engine can remain Kia.

You will need the Kia engine harness (complete with relays and fuse blocks) in the engine bay, the ECM, and the wiring going to the ECM.

The stock Mazda clutch bolts to the Kia flywheel.

The Kia throttle cable mount will not work. You will need custom.

Power steering will not work. You will need a custom high pressure hose made and rig up a fluid reservoir.

The stock tach will not work (reads half the RPM it should). An MSD DIS adapter should work.

The Kia wiring needs to be spliced into the Mazda basically giving it power/ground/signal where needed. You will need wiring diagrams.

A cranks sensor needs to be mounted into the bellhousing of the Mazda trans. Basically just a hole that the sensor goes through.

There are other things but nothing major.

Matt

thanks.