no power on 2.2 (89 mazda)

hi i have a 1989 mazda b2200 with the 2.2 in it i recently put a new timing belt kit on with new pulleys and belt and i found out that the key on the crank shaft was broke and it wobbled out the hole it slides into i can weld really good so i filled the wobbled part on the shaft and the key fits perfect put it all back together and i also put a new clutch kit and new full tune up plugs wires cap rotor air and fuel filter all new got the truck back together and seems when it gets to operating temp warmed up it has NOOO POWER say if i hit the gas pedal it spits and sputters and then usually backfires and then sometimes i driving it stop in go traffic and does the same thing i dont have a timing light so i cant get it timed perfectly i was wondering if that would be the problem if i should take and get it timed or do u guys think its something else im really at a lost for words this damn truck is giving me a headache i was wondering if it could be the vacuum advance??? i also replaced the module in the distrubitor if some1 could give me some information or have any ideas on what it sounds like please feel free thanks again

can anyone tell me on the top timing belt pulley is there a actual timing mark on there or the number 1 on that pulley it has 1,2,3,4 on the pulley?????? please help i bought the damn haynes repair book and it shows the older style with the timing chain PLEASE HELP THANKS

yes, if you look closely right above the number one there is a small arrow, might need to clean the pulley to see it, and there is another arrow that it should line up with on the engine, and if you have taken the pulley off, the pin on the cam should be put back in the hole thats closest to the number one on the pulley

ok i found the arrow right above the number 1 i didnt take it off or anything i lined it up on to the arrow on the front of the casing and i was looking at the distributor and it looks like the rotor is pointing at number 2 instead of number 1 the crank shaft key is straight up also now the bolt that holds the crank shaft pulley on i think part if it broke off in the crank shaft?? it still has alot of threads on it but the end of it looks like it broke off or something i remember its not really long about 1.5inch of threads what should i do?? i dont want to take the crank out and replace it maybe its not broke off i donno could i weld that pulley on the crank???PLEASE HELP heres some pics of what im working with





(is the distributor pointing at 1)???


(i think the end of the bolt broke off how can if it is how can i get it out of the crankshaft i really dont want to weld the pulley on)

ok, the motor is at tdc for cyl #1, now if you pull the distributor out there is a small indentation on the gear, and there is an alingment mark on the distributor itself, line those 2 up and that will be pointing a to cyl#1.
now as for the bolt, yes it is broken, i wouldnt suggest welding the pulley to the crank, cuz i have to find a way to get it back off if you need to change your oil pump, timing belt, water pump, etc. just clean the end of the bolt up a little, like make the end smooth and put it back in and tighten the piss out of it

u think i can use a bolt extractor and get the broken piece out and go to the junk yard and get another crank bolt??? thanks again

if you have enough room to drill it and use an extractor id go for that then just replace the bolt, but i have to het off here pm me and ill give you my number if you have any further questions

well i think its the carb. i still have the stock carb on it and i never seen a carb with 20 vacuum lines and 10 diff. plugs into a carb. anyone have a good deal on the weber conversion??? i timed this truck 20 times over and called in a experienced mechanic and he thinks the same the carb

i just bought a new weber carb yesterday, i have the 32/36 and im swapping it out for the 38/38, idepending on what you want they are around $298 for the 32/36 and $389 for the 38/38, wfor the complete conversion kit from racetep.com . if you do the conversion i would reccomend getting the header also, seeing as if you do both you can say bye bye to all the stupid emmisions shit

You may have a bad vacuum advance.

Do you know how to test one?

Since you don't have a timing light.

Personally, I would make sure everything else is correct before assuming a carburetor is bad.

Because if you swap in a carb and you still have the problem, you are going to be upset.

A perforated diaphragm in a vacuum advance unit causes two problems at a minimum.

1. It creates a ported vacuum leak, which dilutes the incoming fuel charge (less air coming through the venturi) on one or more cylinders, causing a surging condition.

2. It doesn't work to advance ignition timing at a time when more power is needed.