Carbs

I need a new carb because mine is all kinds of jerry-rigged... one of the butterflies (or whatever they're called) has to be held open by a bolt. I took the bolt out and the idle went from 750 rpm's to 3000 where it seemed to stay. I don't know much about carbs, so I tried a few things, but nothing brought the rpm's down until I put the bolt back in the butterfly to hold it open. The rpm's went back down to 750 and everything is fine, but it still runs like crap. So I was wondering if the 2.2 liter engine uses the same carb as the 2.0 liter? There are a couple of un-molested carbs on 2.0's in the pick n pull that I could replace mine with and hopefully make the truck run better.
When I say it runs like crap, its' because I have to let the engine warm up for a few minutes (even when the weather is warm outside) before I can even thing about trying to move the truck under it's own power. Also I don't know if it's just the power band of the 2.2, but when starting out in first gear it feels like there is absolutely no power until about 2500 rpm.
Like I said I don't know much about carbs, but could that bolt be holding the automatic choke open, and that is why it runs the way it does, or is this just the way all B2200's were with a carburater? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

easiest thing to do is to get a 32/36 Weber carb kit for your Mazda b2200 from eBay. then you can eliminate all those unnecessary wires and vacuum lines (which you can find out how and which ones by doing a little bit of reading in some other threads on this site)

I thought about that, but I am planning on swapping the engine out for a '98 or newer 2.3L Ford in a few months, so I don't want to spend that kind of money on something I am not going to be using in a few months anyway.

the stock mazda carbs are junk to begin with. should be the same but it may be different. not all engine parts are exchangeable between the 2000 and 2200

Thanks, I don't want to spend $250 on a Weber, but unless someone can provide some more help, I guess I might have too. Does the Weber 32/36 make a big difference in engine response and power? And would I still have to let the engine warm up for a couple minutes in warm weather with a Weber?

ive got a 32/36 i got from a friend and had rebuilt. It hasnt been run since the rebuild and ive got all the adapters and brackets for 225 shipped if anyones interested.

i just got a 32/36 and it didnt turn my mazda into a ferrari by any means but it did help

If you have a non-working EGR, the computer that controls the carburetor will not do so.
If you have a thermal switch in the radiator that isn't working, the computer that controls the carburetor will not do so.
If you have a bad ground to the computer, the computer that controls the carburetor will not do so.
If you have a fuse that controls power to the computer which is shorted (open) the computer that controls the carburetor will not operate.
If you have a bad O2 sensor, the computer that controls the carburetor will not do so.
If you have a bad mixture control solenoid inside of the carburetor, the computer cannot control fuel trim, so the truck will run poorly and really rich.

You can fix it correctly, which provides great emotional satisfaction, at some cost of time and patience.
Or you can throw a Weber at it and hope you reach truck nirvana that way.
But if it doesn't fix the problem, I'm sure there are lots of folks with helpful ideas that will commiserate with your frustration. . . but they won't give you your money back for following their advice.

MazdaTweaker... thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. I have no idea what most of the stuff you said means, well I do I just don't know how to go about doing and checking all that stuff. I guess I'll just live with it, or take it to someone around here who can help me, until I can find my new engine.
I thought I was looking for a '98 or newer Ford/Mazda 2.3L, but today I was told the 4 cylinders in those years are a 2.5L. So that's what I'm looking for.
Thanks again for the help.