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Mazda Engine General \  2.2L Turbo

2.2L Turbo

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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andymccauley   +1y
ive never posted on this sight before except when my first truck wasnt holding idle cuz the coil was bad lol. im rebuilding a 2.2L carbeurated motor out a 92 mazda that had a blown head gasket and im putting a 2.0L fuel injection system off of a 626 with a somewhat rare 323 watercooled turbo. so far ive got the block torn down to just the bare block. i removed the plug 4 the oil pressure to the turbo that was in the block stock. im trying to gather info on drilling and tapping the block 2 install the oil and coolant return lines i know i have to stay square to the block but i was wondering what size fittings i would use i would like to stay metric. i know they have to b in theses too spots

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green in is coolant, yellow is oil. and i believe i need to find the coolant line off or a F2T that runs to the bottom of the radiator so have a coolant pressure line that taps off of that.
Post was last edited on Jul 09, 2010 09:07. This post has been edited 1 times.
jimbeater   +1y
engine from a 323 thats turbo? must be a 1.8 lt BPT? good stuff.

sorry i have no info on what you need. look at the stuff that you pulled off, and find a way to adapt it to what you need, or your going to need to find or make new lines.
slo_nlo   +1y
Make life easy on yourself. Weld a nipple onto your oil pan (ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE OIL IN THE PAN) and return the oil to there.

Coolant, you could probably rig something similar with a T-fitting somewhere?
slo_nlo   +1y
Not sure if you are still checking this thread, but I just noticed that you are after an F2T coolant line. I have one that I'd be willing to just give you, but it likely will be of no use (If you are talking about the aluminum piece that connects right behind the water pump on the side of the block.). The elbows face opposite directions. The F2T coolant line goes drops down and points towards the firewall (when in our trucks), while the F2 elbow points towards the rad. This is because the F2T is meant for a transverse, FWD appplication. The F2, for a longitudinal, RWD application. You'll run into the same problem with a couple of other items on that motor too.
andymccauley   +1y
havent checked the thread in a long time lol. i was talking about the oil pressure line 4 the turbo that wraps around the back of the motor to the turbo not the front by the water pump i think i have the coolant line. havent really had any progress. painted my block and got a mechanical lifter head havent got any machining done yet or even bought a rebuild kit. kind of unemployed right now.

MECH head, made a FP block off plate today
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couple pics of the block.
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slo_nlo   +1y
Looking good!

If you need the oil feed line for the turbo, I've got one that'll be going to the dump. It's from an F2T, and the reason I'm not using it is because I changed my oil lines over to -AN fittings and steel braided lines. (Unnecessary on oil lines, but it looks so good.).

Anyway. If you want it, it's free. Just have to cover shipping which wouldn't be too bad (I'd assume around $10?). It's in 2 pieces so I'd just have to break the union and it would be able to ship in a paper towel roll or something similar.
slo_nlo   +1y
Double post. Sorry!
andymccauley   +1y
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got my fuel line and air filter

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also mad a EGR block off plate.

all thats left to do is rip the bed off and change the sending unit then put all the wiring in.
andymccauley   +1y
got the mani on, got the intake in, all the lines are hooked up, the FP is connected to a key on wire, n just got the knock sensor screwed in, and i believe all the sensors working, along with the main relay #1 connected to the injectors, and the main relay #2 connected to the MAF.

also had to cut n grind down this corner to clear the thermo housing.
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Coolant Tempature sensor connected to the coolant rail on the intake side.
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dubd dawg   +1y
looking good man..