mixture solenoid picture?

Anyone have a picture of an OEM idle mixture solenoid? From an 1988 B2200 2.2 OEM carb.
Is it the solenoid connected to the lead coming out of the carb with its own connector? or is it connected to the 8 prong connector? Is so, which two wires connect to it?
I wanna take mine out and see if it's working and clean it or take the the one off the old carb and swicth it to see if it works better.
I think it's working but when I ground the white connector it doesn't stall. I can hear it ticking when I turn the key on. It stops ticking when I ground the white diagnostic plug. But when running, I disconnected both electrical connectors coming from the carb and nothing happened.
Thanks for your time and help.

I really need to pass the E test this week. It failed miserably with extremely high CO%.
The rebuilt carb I replaced the original with surges at acceleration from idle or low RPMs. Anyone know of the possible causes.(Idle mixture solenoid????)

So many ??? not enough time.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Jason

Running rich in Ontario sucks.

Can you post your emission numbers?

Do you have a multimeter that can measure DWELL?

What the hell.

Let's measure dwell.

DWELL DWELL DWELL

Mazda's run on dwell

Sounds swell to me!

Lets FIXIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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IF the Mixture control solenoid has failed, HC would be SKY HI

Let's measure DWELL.

Might need the vacuum advance checked too.

Failed 3 times
1st time I only changed plugs, oil/ filter.

high rpm limit reading result Curb idle limit reading
HC ppm 105 288 FAIL 200 267 Fail
CO% 0.58 8.46 FAIL 1.00 0.78 PASS
NO ppm 1179 198 PASS
RPM 1906 RPM 1192
Dilution 17.2 Dilution 11.9

2ND time I tweaked Idle mixture screw (turned it in to lean it out), new O2 sensor, PCV valve, new valve cover to breather filter. checked the timing set to 6*BCD, checked plug gap and rotor gap. Cleaned and checked the EGR valve for carbon and operation.

high rpm limit reading result Curb idle limit reading
HC ppm 105 266 FAIL 200 140 PASS
CO% 0.58 8.57 FAIL 1.00 0.11 PASS
NO ppm 1179 186 PASS
RPM 2865 valid RPM 1088 valid
Dilution 18.0 valid Dilution 11.5 valid

3rd time for shits and giggles I tightened the Carburetor down to stop leak @ intake manifold. Retarded the timing to 0*bcd. to super heat the pre cat.

high rpm limit reading result Curb idle limit reading
HC ppm 105 258 FAIL 200 1150 FAIL
CO% 0.58 7.77 FAIL 1.00 0.02 PASS
NO ppm 1179 175 PASS
RPM 2931 valid RPM 750 valid
Dilution 17.5 valid Dilution 8.5 valid

Funny thing is after the test before I took her home I went to change the timing back to 6*btcd and it was way early. Like 15 BTCD. WTF. KOOKY What's up wit that?

So Now I bought a reconditioned carb of Ebay for $250. I think it's a good rebuild. Some bigger company like National Carburetors rebuilt it.
I swapped it out and found no gasket between the old carb and manifold. No wonder it leaked.
Anyways I forgot to check the float level before I drove it after clearing the codes from the ECM. Turns out float level was low. Was making a bit of popping in the exhaust manifold area and delay or stall at acceleration.
SO today I fixed the float level. But it still surges or hesitates or stalls upon acceleration.
Only once did the idle drop when I grounded the white plug. It makes the clicking in the carb stop with the key turned to ON when it's not running though.
The engine doesn't die when I disconnect tho electrical connectors coming from the carb. The 8 pin and the 2 pin disconnected it still runs.
When I connect the DWELL meter up to the White Diagnostic plug the reading is ZERO.
I get nothing from the Green/ yellow plug.

I also changed the fuel filter yesterday and found lots of rust in the old filter. So I know the tank is rusty.
New cap and rotor and wires too.

Anyone have any suggestions before I lose it and break out a BFH at start swinging. <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_mad.gif" alt=":x" title="Mad" /><!-- s:x -->
Thanks
Jason

Upon further investigation of MazdaBScene, I found the Sticky of Tech- Carb and Vacuum Diagrams The exploded carb pucture is good.

Also found a mixture control page out there on the interweb with a good picture of a solenoid for the Nikki.

A trouble shooting I go.
J

Checked the dwell.

No more dwell reading from the diagnostic plug.

Last week there was a dwell reading. Now there is not.
Does that mean the ECM is cooked?

I tried another ECM and still no dwell. The mixture solenoid no longer clicks when the key is turned to ON.
No signal from the ecm.

Mixture solenoid tries to stall the engine when I put 12 volts to it though.
I also found the connector to the mixture control solenoid to be broken. One wir e came out of the plug. Could that have fried the ECM when it shorted.

Anyone in southern Ontario have a silver 88 Mazda B2200 I could borrow for an hour. It's gotta pass the etest though.$100 in it for ya.

The ECM is probably fine.


There are a couple of switches that have to be operational before the solenoid starts getting actuated by the ECM.

The EGR has to be supplying a scratchy electrical signal to the ECM.

The thermal switch in the bottom radiator core needs to be operating.

Water temperature needs to be above 160 degrees I think.

O2 sensor must be operational.

If the MC solenoid is shut off by the ecm, the dwell should default to 27 degrees.

With the meter hooked up and the engine idling, you can rev the engine once, let it idle and you should see the dwell drop to zero and start climbing numerically, to 90, and then lock on 27. In that case, the MCS is fine, but the ECM isn't receivig the other signals, so it shuts off the MCS

Figured out why the ECM wasn't giving a dwell signal anymore. Blown 'meter' fuse in the inside fuse panel.
Fixed that. And now I get a dwell meter reading of 5. It peaks up when I rev the engine but goes back down to 5 for idling.
Timing is set 6* bTDC.

Here is a digi video I took yesterday:Checking Dwell

I replaced the water thermo sensor on the intake manifold the other day. No change.
Should I change the lower rad temperature sensor too?

Thanks for the reply Mazdatweaker.

I tried to watch your video.

Most of it looked like a red and green (*)

The ground wire of the meter needs to go to ground.

The other wire goes to the GREEN check connector.

Normally that wire would be red.

But in your video it's blue.

And, hooked up wrong.

Why buy and install switches and go to all that time and expense before you even know they are in need of replacement?

Thanks guys, I think I'll get it figured out eventually.

As far as the blue wire in the video and the dwell meter hook up. The blue wire is my patch wire inserted into the white diagnostic plug, hooked up to the positive on the dwell meter and the negitive is hooked to the ground(-)on the battery.

I don't get any dwell reading from the green plug. Only a voltage reading on the multimeter. I think there is a way to check the fuel mixture @ idle from the green plug by reading the output volts or ohms or something. Further investigation is required to adjust the idle fuel mixture that way. But that's not my problem right now.

I found the connector on the temp sensor bottom of the rad to be corroded and not hooked up. So that was probably part of the problem for the ECM and running in limp mode (rich). I reconnected it.

So I put a back probe wire in to the connector of the O2 sensor so I could get some readings off that to see if I was still getting the rich condition at high RPM. The O2 sensor is brand new. The default voltage from the O2 sensor is supposed to be 4.5 volts with a max output of 1.01 volts. If the output is close to 1.01 then the O2 sensor is reading a rich condition, closer to zero a lean condition. So I adjusted the idle mixture screw on the carb @ idle to give a reading fluctuating above and below 4.5 volts @ idle.
When I rev the engine the O2 sensor peaks up close to 1.01v. Then while still at high rpm, when I ground the diagnostic plug, to check the Air/ fuel solenoid. The O2 sensor voltage drops down to a lean condition, like close to .01v.
That tells me the Air/ fuel mixture solenoid is good, it's just not getting the signal from the ECM to kick in when the engine revs.
Now I just discovered that when I disconnect the vacuum sensor hose and plug the hose, then rev the engine, the O2 sensor voltage goes high then it starts to give a leaner reading and fluctuates up and down from .01-.09 And the dwell meter reading goes from close to Zero like in the video I made, up to a higher level. Which corresponds with a OEM carb trouble shooting guide found on the web, about checking the DWELL.
So maybe I have found the problem. Faulty vacuum sensor. One of the causes of a low dwell reading from the diagnostic plug according to the OEM carb trouble shooting guide found on the web.

Anyone know how to test the Vacuum Sensor? ie back probing with a multimeter.

I replaced my mixture control solenoid on the carb and the truck passed amazingly...Even tho it passed I am having issues with the truck running like crap jerking when gas is applied. I check the dwell and it varies not passed 30, resets to 0 and jumps up to roughly 27 and stays there. Any ideas? I been trying to get this thing tuned in correctly and have had no luck.