Mazda havin issues again

Truck is a lowrider.... Its just a jap compact 1/8 ton truck
Now i have your attention...
Well its running this time
1992 mazda b2200 fi
Runs like crap. Runs damn hot when goin up one hill on my daily commute while before it would be mid gauge
Will not idle. If i keep a booster on it stays idling. How ever idle is 200-1200 rpm. No booster idles for half minute and stalls and dies. Feels like it has a miss but have spark going to all plugs. Also running rich.

Ran fine. Thought i would put new plugs in. Got them all in and now this. Didnt do anything else other than hook up a amp for a subwoofer.

Can hear hissing when i put ear to maf sensor.
Going to try playing with dizzy timing a bit. Just to see.

Any ideas?

Its a 1/4 ton truck.

A 1/4 ton should be able to haul more than a half full jockeybox and one mud tire. Goin to replace battery see if that helps

Check this thread out the ECU seems to be a common problem with these B's, you might have some corrosion on the main board, take it out of the kick panel and check out the capacitors, etc.



Mine hisses from the mass airflow too, but I had to replace the tube from the Trottle body to the MAF bec of a rip in it (was on the bottom of the tube and I couldnt see it), this will cause poor running also...

you could have a bad MAF but usually it will cause a no start or run problem.

the following is copy and paste from the link above.

I would try unplugging the following one at a time and see if they have any effect on your problem.

1. Idle Air Control Valve (on top of the throttle - just follow the lead coming out of it to find the connecter.)

2. Mass Airflow Sensor

I would also check the following:

1. Idle switch (on the throttle body)
There is a connecter for it between the valve cover and the fuel rail. Unplug it and then check that you have continuity between the switch lead (it will be the aft one - the truck harness is the one in front) and ground when the throttle is closed. You should not have continuity there when the throttle is NOT at idles. If these two test don't check out, then you have a problem there.

2. Check the Coolant and Air temp probes for the proper resistance.

Coolant temp probe: at 68 degrees, it should be between 2,200 and 2,700 ohms.

Air Temp Sensor: At 77 degrees, it should be 29,700 - 36,300 ohms.

3. Check the throttle position sensor. Let us know if you need the procedures

4. Check the Clutch Switch (the one at the top of the pedal travel, not the starter inhibit switch at the bottom)

When the pedal is depressed, you should have continuity. When the pedal is released, you should NOT have continuity. If you do have continuity at the top of the travel, then you need to adjust the switch, replace it, or replace the "stopper pad" on the pedal as they tend to form a depression in the center and it no longer opens the switch. This will be a pain to get to with a multimeter. You'll want some small alligator clips on your leads.

read your post a little closer... check your plug gaps on all your spark plugs make sure they are in spec, you might be blowing out your spark if the gap is too wide, or not sparking well if it is too close. what plugs did you use?

I use the - NGK (part# - BPR5ES-11) plug gap at 0.44 - and my 1992 B2200 EFI runs great with them. They are the standard temp no fancy vpower or iridium plugs crap, its not necessary unless your running high HP or turbo and usually performance is worse.