himynameischance's 91 b2200

So I just sat here and typed a whole novel on my truck and it didn't go through so here it goes again.

I recently bought a 91 B2200 on air ride, 5 speed tranny. 93,xxx original miles.
Ive had a few troubles since I bought it so Ill start at the beginning.
The truck has had two previous owners. The original owner had it built by a place in California that used to be known as "The Hack Shack." Hard times fell on him and he sold it to his buddy in Utah who swapped the doors and hood and primered it.

Right now, it lays frame on 18" Colorado Custom Billets, bags in the front and air shocks and leaf springs in the rear. It has two shitty compressors and a 3 gallon tank, three switches, rear is together.

I would like to re do the air ride system. I am seriously considering the Airbagit.com street scraper, as I am wanting bolt on because I am not a welder and lack fabrication skills. I would do a 4 link but its fully weld on and I'm not comfortable with that yet. Im either going to get 2 5 gallon tanks or 1 8 gallon. 2 Viair 480 compressors, and either all 3/8 valves, an Accuair VU4, or the Airbagit.com Plug N Play Engine. I would also like to raise the gas tank SOON. Any input is good input, as I have no idea where to begin, but I have read a lot about AIM, Airbagit, Chassistech and haven't quite found enough to make me hate them. So if you have facts about them please let me know, but I don't wanna hear about a guy in your clubs sisters boyfriends little brothers tailgate handle relocator not fitting right.

When I got the truck home, it didn't want to go into gear and started creeping with the clutch pedal to the floor when I finally got it in gear. Then the starter went out. So I changed the starter and battery (800CCA) and it cranks very slowly. If I hook it up to another car with jumper cables it will crank over enough to start up. When I was changing the starter I noticed the slave cylinder had fluid on it. Not enough to leave a drop on the floor but enough to build up dirt. So my thoughts are the slave is bad and not allowing the clutch to disengage. Another idea I had was that the new starter was holding onto the flywheel too firmly and causing it not to spin hard enough.

Like I said, Any input is good input. Let me know what you think, ideas, anything! Hopefully I can get pictures up tonight.

AAAAAAANNNDDD PICTURES

Fixed a few of them for you, Cool truck. It looks good but it used to look great, It's too bad the body isn't as nice as it was back in the day...
And what's wrong with the air ride setup that's making you want to go with AIM parts?

Just to get your attention. Yeah, the clutch hydraulic cylinders on these trucks are not that reliable over time. Change it (maybe the clutch master too, bench-bleed that), and flush out all the old fluid through the clutch bleeder screw.

Is that magazine the same MiniTruckin that was around in the early 1980s? I used to subscribe, but cancelled when divorce cost me the 1975 Chevy Luv.

Lowlyfe; the body is still really straight. No dents or dings. The only reason it's primered is because the doors and hood got swapped out. But I would like to have bags in the rear instead of air shocks and get rid of the leaf springs.

Cusser; do you think this would have anything to do with my starting issue? I do believe this would be the same magazine that caused the divorce haha

I just got home from my 2 weeks out of town and I hopped in the truck and after a few sad sounding slow cranks she fired right over. Still not were I want it to be but it starts haha

I subscribe to Hot VWs magazine, and even though 99% of their readership is male, about 15 years ago somebody complained and they did away with their nice-boobed bikini models on their covers and in their articles. About that time, Popular Mechanics was being pressured not to use gals in swimsuits in their boating articles !!!

Absolutely ridiculous.

Back to your truck: have you tried cleaning all the wire connections? Then next try a 12 volt positive jumper wire from the battery to the small terminal on the starter directly (or jump from the large positive terminal on the starter to the smaller one (which is from the ignition switch) ? That test is to bypass the ignition switch in case that has a borderline or bad connection/high resistance. Make sure that truck is in neutral or park before trying that tough. See if that makes starter spin faster/better.

Also, is cranking faster/better if you jump your battery from another vehicle?

Post your voltage reading across the battery a few seconds in when it's cranking badly.

Haven't posted in a while but I have done a few things. Nothing real big but Ill bring an update tomorrow. Just thought I'd drop back by and see if anyone had any opinions on a street scraper or any of my other ideas. Let me know!

Honestly, if you can't weld then just take it to a shop and have a 4 link put in for you. The money that you will save on a regular 4 link ($285 from and I think mazdabscene gets 10% off) compared to 'road grater' kit (what about $1500) you will pay the shop in labor and have better results.

As for the air management setup I just posted a thread for Accuair to get user feedback on it. It seems like the way to go. I am running 8 - 3/8 SMC valves and 3 firestone compressors with 23 gallons of air (20 gallon in the bed and 3 gallon under it). The SMC valves and one of the firestone compressors have been used since 2003 with zero problems. I added the 2 other compressors when I added the 20 gallon tank and took out a 5 gallon tank.

For parts I always buy from top companies even if I have to pay a few more bucks because I know that product quality and customer service will be there. You can't go wrong with grant.