'90 B2200, 347 Trubo Stroker, Engine Swap

Wanted to change a few things on my wiring harness setup, so I decided to remove and re-do a section of my wiring. So I've removed dash again (still have it out)... Re-did the wiring harness with some changes and additions, including upgraded heat shielding.

Finalized my factory Mazda alternator install...Also customized a Nissan relay box, and fitted it w/ a fuse section from a Ford donor, as well as a Ford maxi-fuse from another donor fuse box... A 3-to-1 deal, ha,ha. Outfitted with cannon plugs from other harnesses I have been collecting for times like this, so it's a plug-and-play setup for easy install/removal. The 3 relays control radiator fans hi, lo, and electric w.p. The fuse section replaces the two factory fuses for chassis circuits as well as three fuses for relay circuits.

Managed to find a place for the dual ignition box setup as far from heat as possible and w/ positive airflow for cooling purposes (but had to get rid of windshield washer tank), have a few parts on order to fully complete the ignition box/coil setup, but should be complete soon. All interior wiring has been completed... including aftermarket gauges that I've installed w/ cannon plugs for easy install/removal. Still have a few wiring issues to work out such as battery placement & supply, starter circuit, and fuel pump circuit... but besides that, I've managed to marry both the oem gauge cluster to the aftermarket system, so all my warning lights & gauges work as intended... All gauges except speedometer, don't know what to do about that, and don't really care at the moment., but any ideas are welcome!!!!

I've began to deal w/ the vacuum layout, and have mounted a manual boost controller on the dash for real time adjustment from the driver's seat and have began routing my hoses inside the cabin for better protection and longevity... will be dealing with routing vacuum and boost plumbing and finishing wiring for next week or two.

Still have allot of details left, but I feel very good about the progress so far this winter, and were not even in winter yet. Want to get it finished before spring, but still have quite a few details to tackle... but one at a time!

Let me know what ya' think. Any ideas or suggestions are not only welcomed but requested. Thanks in advance for your time!

more photos

Gauges & boost controller front and mounting view.

So... when the motor torques, you aren't worried about the alt belt tension?
What was wrong with using the ford alt?

I wondered if anyone would ask about that. Ok, so there are things that are missing from the pictures, because I put them on and take them off all the time until everything is finalized... So I found it easier to stay with the factory alternator (although a higher amp upgrade will be required) because believe it or not I was unable to find a mount system that would actually work for my application... I know this sounds like a cop-out, but believe me it's true. Had I designed my exhaust crossover pipe differently I would not have this problem... but since alternator mounting was an after-though, well... after all there are 100's of aftermarket mount options right? Yet there are very few options for passenger side, low mount, for electric w/p on a 302... and those that are available are not truly low mount - they are technically mid-mount and will not clear my exhaust crossover, plus they tend to put the alternator placement relative to belt alignment too forward for my needs. Driver's side true low-mounts are available, but will not clear gear box. I scratched my head over this last winter, and I was down to building my own mount system, but just for grins I decided to try the factory alternator, and won't you know if fit and aligned perfectly, and I had two places to choose from... and since higher amp options are available, I decided to use it instead because it solved the placement issue quite nicely, as well as solving the OEM warning light functionality issue... so why not.

As far as using the chassis for an anchor point, well that's a calculated gamble to be honest. As you most likely know the 302 engine, as do most engines, rotates clockwise from a front view, so any torque rotation will in my case tighten the belt and can snap something... got it. But Since I have a solid mount setup, and most of the torque twist will be induced to the chassis as well... and given the distance between he engine to the alternator anchor points... I'm expecting to see very little deflection between the two. All that to say... I don't know how well it's really going to work when I really stomp on it, but I suspect it will work just fine.... I was thinking about a simple spring loaded setup, but figured I would try the turnbuckles first... kinda' looks better.

Happy 2016 Everyone! Hope this year come full of blessings for you and yours!

Well had to go to the drawing board for the last few weeks doing allot of researching with the ignition boxes... turns out the NASCAR series boxes that I have are actually not compatible with the ACCEL DFI system... so after talking to Crane Cam's & ACCEL reps I went out finding solutions... couldn't find any... So I'm ordering new ignition boxes that are just as powerful and compatible with the output signal... Jut keep that in mind when you find an deal out there on an ignition box!

Besides that hiccup... my capacitor came in for the ignition boxes that's installed. Also was able to finalize battery placement and ran the wiring for it... finished wiring the fuel pump circuit, and ecm circuits... installed the horn... All lighting seems to be functional...

Today I plan to drop the fuel tank and re-inspect all plumbing, and connect pump, re-install tank and be done with it. Then I need to build grounding jumpers for my chassis and engine block... and need to build the starter and alternator wiring and make it all look pretty and that should be it for my wiring... except for the ignition boxes all the wiring will be completed. So I plan to have that done today and reinstall the dash, and then I can test most of the electrical circuits... Should be able to connect the ACCEL ECU to the computer and test sensors, activate fans.. time distributor...etc... Down to the details!

Just started on here. Got a 89 b2200 off my dad. We rebuilt it top to bottom. New everything. Blew head gasket 6 months later. I'm sticking a 392 in it. Hopefully I can get some tips from you along the way with wedging a small block in it. I'm mainly worried about transmission clearance if I put a c6 in it. Did you have to cut the floor or firewall any? Thanks

Welcome to the site, there are many others here w/ V8 swap experience as well so allot of the info can be found in prior threads also... But to answer your question NO... No need to cut of floor boards or firewall... Also many others have managed fine w/o cutting radiator support, my suggestion is dont cut radiator support unless you rwally need to.

Fuel tank is back up... Dash is all installed... Battery inside cab behind passenger seat... Exhaust system finalized and closed... All wring completed and wrapped... Just finished building a custom bracket for the throttle linkage and modifying the Ford linkage to accept the factory Mazda throttle cable... All boost plumbing routed to fuel press. reg, digital boost sensor, map sensor, manual boost controller inside cab, waste gate, and bov... Finishing the water pump/ radiator plumbing now, some parts on order and should be here this week and then I can close up the cooling system for good...

Coming together... still... details, details, details...