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Mazda Projects \ 1993 B2600i Cab Plus 4x41993 B2600i Cab Plus 4x4
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anguswilly
+1y
Ok, so I got this truck for a great deal. Previous owner supposedly drove for an extended period of time with a blown head gasket, resulting in oil filling the cooling system but since it would drive - he drove it.
Since he had to keep adding water, the cooling system soon became only water - well to make a long story short, it froze and ended his day.
I got the truck and debated long and hard on what to do, the body and frame is clean and the rest of the driveline is perfect - checked the 4wd and it all works as it should.
Finally decided to go as cheap as I reasonably could (I have been an import mechanic for 20 years)
I got a 1995 MPV engine and decided to swap it, this motor could not be run before pulling it so I was taking a bit of a chance but for $300 I decided to go for it.
First order of business was to pull the motor out of the truck, took me about 2 hrs, that is with me taking my time.
Then I set both engine up on stands to transfer the necessary components - this may be of interest to others wondering about this swap so here are what is needed:
- Heater hose pipes on engine are different
- Alternator brackets
- P.S. bracket
-Oil pan and pickup (more on this later)
- Engine backplate and Flywheel
- Motor mount brackets
- Various small brackets
- The coolant temp sender for the gauge
The intake manifold and sensors, right down to the injectors are identical - I swapped mine because I know that my stuff ran, while the other motor I did not know for sure.
I then decided to get smart and do a leak down test ( I pulled the plugs and saw they were crusted from oil burning maybe) The valves all leaked and then I tapped the top of the valves with a mallet they got better - I figured they might seat OK once the motor was run (who knows how long it sat) I also noted no leakage into the crankcase, so presumably the rings were OK.
What I then saw was that the valve guides had signs of oil running down into the exhaust ports - I deliberated on this because I wanted to stay "cheap" I then noticed that some of the lifters had bled down (you could push them by hand)
So I decided to bite the bullet and get a set of lifters, I figured at least it would not tick then - I also decided to do the valve seals too.
I pulled the rocker arm assy, and used my handy Lisle valve spring tool to make quick work of the valve springs and it took me about an hour or less to do the seals.
Found that only 4 of my lifters were good so that is lucky.
With the head all buttoned up, it was time to move on to the oil pan and pick-up swap. Well that was fun, I found out that the pick-up is installed in a way that requires the entire front timing cover to come off to access one of the bolts that holds it to the pump - on the new motor I was able to cheat and get the bolt out, on the old motor, the bolt was stubborn and with no access, I had to struggle with it and after 1/2hr, I decided to take matters into my own hands. What I came up with is this:
While the bolt goes into the oil pump / timing cover, there is a bolt boss visible from the outside and that being the case, I drilled that boss directly in the center with a 3/16" drill bit, till it drilled into the bolt and started to grab the bolt, once that happened - the bolt unscrewed with the drill bit! If I ever need to re-use that timing cover, I will simply seal the hole with silicone or JB weld, I could even weld it.
2 minutes of drilling after 1/2 hour of swearing at mazda engineers.
While the pan was off, I pulled the windage tray, and checked all the bearings which were good and then also noted that the motor is remarkably clean inside - somebody loved their oil changes.
Dropped the motor back in and fired it up - it runs great and smooth, but have not driven it so I want to see how much or if it smokes at all.
I now have to change the exhaust, I have the compete exhaust off my other truck so I will delete the cat and put that on.
Plans for the truck include:
31" M/T tires and wheels
2" to 5" lift (undecided how high)
New carpet set
Window tint
Shine up paint
New front bumper
Power window mod (honda accord)
Stereo and alarm
Since he had to keep adding water, the cooling system soon became only water - well to make a long story short, it froze and ended his day.
I got the truck and debated long and hard on what to do, the body and frame is clean and the rest of the driveline is perfect - checked the 4wd and it all works as it should.
Finally decided to go as cheap as I reasonably could (I have been an import mechanic for 20 years)
I got a 1995 MPV engine and decided to swap it, this motor could not be run before pulling it so I was taking a bit of a chance but for $300 I decided to go for it.
First order of business was to pull the motor out of the truck, took me about 2 hrs, that is with me taking my time.
Then I set both engine up on stands to transfer the necessary components - this may be of interest to others wondering about this swap so here are what is needed:
- Heater hose pipes on engine are different
- Alternator brackets
- P.S. bracket
-Oil pan and pickup (more on this later)
- Engine backplate and Flywheel
- Motor mount brackets
- Various small brackets
- The coolant temp sender for the gauge
The intake manifold and sensors, right down to the injectors are identical - I swapped mine because I know that my stuff ran, while the other motor I did not know for sure.
I then decided to get smart and do a leak down test ( I pulled the plugs and saw they were crusted from oil burning maybe) The valves all leaked and then I tapped the top of the valves with a mallet they got better - I figured they might seat OK once the motor was run (who knows how long it sat) I also noted no leakage into the crankcase, so presumably the rings were OK.
What I then saw was that the valve guides had signs of oil running down into the exhaust ports - I deliberated on this because I wanted to stay "cheap" I then noticed that some of the lifters had bled down (you could push them by hand)
So I decided to bite the bullet and get a set of lifters, I figured at least it would not tick then - I also decided to do the valve seals too.
I pulled the rocker arm assy, and used my handy Lisle valve spring tool to make quick work of the valve springs and it took me about an hour or less to do the seals.
Found that only 4 of my lifters were good so that is lucky.
With the head all buttoned up, it was time to move on to the oil pan and pick-up swap. Well that was fun, I found out that the pick-up is installed in a way that requires the entire front timing cover to come off to access one of the bolts that holds it to the pump - on the new motor I was able to cheat and get the bolt out, on the old motor, the bolt was stubborn and with no access, I had to struggle with it and after 1/2hr, I decided to take matters into my own hands. What I came up with is this:
While the bolt goes into the oil pump / timing cover, there is a bolt boss visible from the outside and that being the case, I drilled that boss directly in the center with a 3/16" drill bit, till it drilled into the bolt and started to grab the bolt, once that happened - the bolt unscrewed with the drill bit! If I ever need to re-use that timing cover, I will simply seal the hole with silicone or JB weld, I could even weld it.
2 minutes of drilling after 1/2 hour of swearing at mazda engineers.
While the pan was off, I pulled the windage tray, and checked all the bearings which were good and then also noted that the motor is remarkably clean inside - somebody loved their oil changes.
Dropped the motor back in and fired it up - it runs great and smooth, but have not driven it so I want to see how much or if it smokes at all.
I now have to change the exhaust, I have the compete exhaust off my other truck so I will delete the cat and put that on.
Plans for the truck include:
31" M/T tires and wheels
2" to 5" lift (undecided how high)
New carpet set
Window tint
Shine up paint
New front bumper
Power window mod (honda accord)
Stereo and alarm
Post was last edited on Jan 20, 2014 10:01. This post has been edited 1
times.
anguswilly
+1y
Ok, today I got my wheels and tires.
31x10.5R15 Kumho KL71 and 15x10, 3.75" B.S. Ultra Rogue in black.
While they stick out more than I thought,, it's not really crazy. No rubbing at all - I have my front torsions all the way up and am putting 2" blocks in rear to level it.
At this rate, I may not even do a body lift or if I do maybe 2" instead of 3"
Will post pics when I take some.
31x10.5R15 Kumho KL71 and 15x10, 3.75" B.S. Ultra Rogue in black.
While they stick out more than I thought,, it's not really crazy. No rubbing at all - I have my front torsions all the way up and am putting 2" blocks in rear to level it.
At this rate, I may not even do a body lift or if I do maybe 2" instead of 3"
Will post pics when I take some.
anguswilly
+1y
Here it is, I put two flares on so when I get the flares done, I will take more pics.
This is the 2" blocks in rear and torsions cranked so it's just about to touch the upper stops.
This is the 2" blocks in rear and torsions cranked so it's just about to touch the upper stops.
anguswilly
+1y
LOL - took me 2 months of owing this truck to realize the driver side has a black mirror!
anguswilly
+1y
Let me post an update (part of this is from another post I wrote) -
I know that these motors have a bad rep but let me say after working on the G6 engine, the motor is built VERY well from a design and construction standpoint, the motor is a good design and not only makes more power than the B2200 (30 more hp) - it seems to make more power and run much smoother than the greatly loved Toyota 22R -
I drove the truck today (am about to drive it again in a bit here) and I really like the motor.
If I realized I could get that kind of power from the stock B2600i before - I would have bought a 2WD b2600i instead of all my B2200's and probably have been happy with the power - no turbos needed.
This thing will spin one inside tire with my new tires while getting on it in a corner! No B2200 would ever do that even on little tires. To top it off, it revs better and is smooth and quiet.
I know that these motors have a bad rep but let me say after working on the G6 engine, the motor is built VERY well from a design and construction standpoint, the motor is a good design and not only makes more power than the B2200 (30 more hp) - it seems to make more power and run much smoother than the greatly loved Toyota 22R -
I drove the truck today (am about to drive it again in a bit here) and I really like the motor.
If I realized I could get that kind of power from the stock B2600i before - I would have bought a 2WD b2600i instead of all my B2200's and probably have been happy with the power - no turbos needed.
This thing will spin one inside tire with my new tires while getting on it in a corner! No B2200 would ever do that even on little tires. To top it off, it revs better and is smooth and quiet.