dgtllvr
+1y
Easiest way is to use a MityVac. Just depends on how much free time you have, and what your budget is. They allow you to do a brake/clutch bleed by yourself. You'll want to start at the rear drivers side, rear passenger side, front passenger side, and then front drivers side. That way you're pulling fluid the farthest distance first.
They make a Hand pump (MV8020 Brake Bleeding Kit) which works well enough, keeps the project inexpensive and it's a great tool to have around the garage.
The better choice is the Air Compressor model (MV6830 Vacuum Brake Bleeder) which uses the air from your air compressor to create the vacuum instead of wearing out your hand.
Either one will work fine, the big issue is that people don't change their fluid often enough. Rule of thumb is once every other year or every 25k miles. Whichever comes first. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (" target="_blank) which means it absorbs water. It does this so that any moisture that enters the system doesn't rust or corrode any surfaces. The more water it absorbs, the more likely you'll boil the fluid which will make your pedal hit the floor and your vehicle will murder everything it can.
Do use: DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1
Do not use: DOT5
Any good DOT3 fluid will have a high enough boiling point when fresh to allow your Mazda B-series brakes to work safely for a reasonable interval. Moving up into the DOT4 and DOT5.1 means you're buying a higher boiling point fluid, not that it will last longer. Water boils at the same temp no matter what, so the first sign of water in the system and the entire system is reduced to the boiling point of water. The higher the boiling point, the less likely you'll lose your braking ability under heavy stopping. The DOT5 is a silicone based brake fluid and is not hygroscopic, if you use that, you take a very good chance of causing all sort of brake system failures. Also the DOT5 will not mix or blend with the others, meaning you'll generally need to replace the entire brake system to be safe.
If you live in a wet rain forrest type region, you should obviously flush your brake and clutch fluid more often. If you live in dry or arid region you'll want to stick to the 2year/25k mile interval. If you're towing with or racing your vehicle, you'll want to change it more often, and use a DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid to help increase the boiling temp.
Brake fluid is relatively cheap, a small bottle will flush the entire system on these trucks, a large bottle will work for multiple vehicles. What you want to avoid is opening a bottle then leaving it on your shelf for 5 years. Do not buy a huge bottle expecting it to last, it is in a nearly air tight container, but only nearly, and it will absorb water from the air around it. If you have to add fluid to your system every few months or less, you need to have your system serviced as it has a leak. The brake reservoir on these trucks should allow for full brake pad wear before you need to add fluid.
As a side note, Ford still makes a relatively cheap brake fluid for the old 1960's Lincoln town car. It has one of the highest boiling points out there on the market and is far less expensive than racing brake fluid. They had to make that formulation because the cars weighed so much, and little old ladies would ride the brake in them. Which lead to a rash of car accidents cause once the fluid was warm, a single good emergency stop just wouldn't even happen lol.