What bolt and ratchet do I need to change spark

What size bolt do I need to change the spark plugs ? Mazda b2200 88

13/16 inch spark plug socket and long extension makes it easier for #3 and #4.

As Cusser mentioned... this is a socket only for plugs... it has a "grabber" in the bottom to hold the plug.



I use a 12" extension on all of them, especially #3#4. That will get you past the brake booster.

I use these for the boots... you can use a touch of silicone on the plugs to help the boots not stick.




Don't cross thread the new plugs, which can be done on the aluminum head.

Wouldn't that be a 5/8" six point deep socket with or with out the rubber "plug holder"?
Always remove plugs from a cold engine, less apt for the threads to come out with the plug!

Never try to, remove spark plugs from an even warm engine.

Always used 3/8" drive, more sensitive to amount of force required to turn the plug.

Hold the ratchet pivot point straight inline with the plug, so as not to break the plug removing each.
They may not approve of you removing them!
If that is true, after a few turns. Spray something like silicon lube, liquid wrench (with the plastic extension on it) down around and if possible into the threaded area of the plug. Turn the ratchet back to tighten and return the threads in a couple of turns, then try to remove. Repeat process as necessary.

Check plug gap before installing.

To prevent the new plug from seizing in the threads, apply light coat of never-seize compound (graphite containing compound) to the threads of the new plug. Start it by hand, no ratchet, no universal (can use an extension in the socket to do this). May need to screw in and out several times to reach plug seating depth. A hard start into the threads may be the dread cross threading. Be sure the plug does not cross thread!

Thank you everyone for you input ! I'm attempting a tune up today after work , is there anything else besides air filter spark plug and wires I should change ?

Distributor cap- check inside for oil film (fumes migrate past the bushing over time, this will allow the spark to "wonder about") and if the four post have residue from spark jump, rotor button, fuel filter and air filter.
Good time to inspect all fuel lines and water hoses (remember the small one on the under side of intake at the rear) for cracks.
If this truck is new to you, drain the fuel tank this time. There should be a plug in the bottom of the tank- park vehicle so plug is lowest point of the tank and flush (after fuel stops running out, change catch container, pour fresh fuel into tank inlet to wash residue laying on bottom) until relatively clean runs out. Fine stuff sucked through the fuel pump wears the fuel pump out, it is in the tank probably.

All I can think of.

Full tune up will include: Spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, air filter, PCV valve, fuel filter, engine oil & filter change, transmission oil change, rear axle oil change.

Since you must crack the transmission case to drain the oil you may as well change the filter too.

I'd also suggest getting a PCV from the dealer, there is a difference from the big box stores.