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Mazda Engine General \  HELP rear drum wont turn

HELP rear drum wont turn

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 12
following 3
 
j muggins   +1y
So, I am changing the brakes on the left rear of my truck. I pull the drum off and discover oil on the brake shoes. The truck has been sitting in a garage for six years until I drove it around the block right before I bought it last week. I guess I need to replace the oil seal and/or axle casting. I clean everything up. Grind off those tabs on the hub so my Titan's will fit. Put the drum back on. Then, as I tighten up those two screws that hold on the drum, I notice it's seizing up. It will not turn by hand. The last couple of turns with the Phillips draws it in nearly solid.
The new brake shoes are correct. I tried switching the shoes. When I ground off those nubs, I took my time so that I didn't warp or harm the way the drum fits on the hub. I tried both rear drums, same issue.
I guess I have it narrowed down to two possibilities. Either, the heat affected the way the drum sits on the hub due to warping and now it's rubbing against the shoes, or (if possible) the seal/axle casting or other axle part is the culprit. Remember all the oil that was on the old shoes? What do you think?
mazdatweaker   +1y
I think you are trying to do too much at the same time.
mazdatweaker   +1y
Are you done with the brakes?

Did you put the old wheels that it drove in with back on it, and drive it around the block, to see if the brake job was done?

Did you take out the axle to replace the seal?

Did you retract the adjuster all the way, to verify drum to shoe clearance?

Are the shoes centered on the backing plate?

Are you qualified to replace the brakes on a vehicle you have only owned for a short time?

Would you know?
mazdatweaker   +1y
For what it is worth, this thread could turn INTO a brake how to.

J Muggins will be doing the work, and I'll be giving him directions.

Anyone else in the room with ASE certifications?
(flashing credentials)

He needs to replace the axle seal.

He needs to check the oil level in the differential. The fluid has been leaking and has soaked the shoes. The shoes need to be replaced. I think the gear oil is 85-90.

Did J Muggins do that?

And there is always the shortcut method.

Lots of them. But I guess when it comes to brakes, don't put other people sharing the road with you at risk by a bad brake repair.
j muggins   +1y
I am replacing: Brakes, suspension, wheels, tires, and whatever else the truck needs. If I have the rearend off the ground to replace the brakes, shocks, oil seal, etc, what's wrong with that? I don't feel it's too much at at once. It's what is necessary to complete the job. When I am done with the rear I will move to the front. And I am not taking short cuts. The oil level in the differential is not causing the drum to seize up. I don't need a ASE (credential) lol, to tell me that.

Anyways, no, I am not done with the brakes. The rear is where I started. The shocks are on. The hubs are ground. New brake shoes and cylinders are on. The rear right is adjusted and is good to go. The rear left is the problem. Everything looks fine. I have adjusted the shoes so that the drum just slides on. Once it is on, and I tighten the two screws, it seizes up the wheel.

I have tried each rear drum. Same problem. I have tried loosening the adjuster all the way. Same problem. Everything seems fine, until the last two turns of the screwdriver on the drum.

I have not pulled the axle seal out yet. I know its, either worn or the casting is cracked. Whichever is causing the leak.

Is it possible that when I tighten up the drum it is pulling crooked and rubbing the shoes due to the A) Axle seal or casting, B) warping due to grinding of the hubs, C) something else.

Thanks to all who can provide Tech Help without bragging about their certificates to entertain other readers. This is Tech Help, right? ~J
mazdatweaker   +1y
My suspicion is that the rear shoes are thicker than stock linings, and the drums have some internal taper.

The taper is largest at the open end of the drum, and maybe the shoes are pinching the drum as you draw it up.

Dude, don't take it personal. . . some people should never be allowed to get near a set of brakes on any vehicle.
mazdatweaker   +1y
And no, this isn't tech "help". . .

This area is once yo are an expert, like me and some others, and you post your excellent results of stuff you've done.

"Tech write Ups by Members"
91extcab   +1y
just out of curiosity... are your wheel cylinders in good working order and not leaking themselves? are you sure the oil leak is coming from the axle and not the brake line wheel cyndler at the top of each side inside the drum...? is the ebrake released while you are trying to rotate the drum...?
j muggins   +1y
The wheel cylinders are new. The oil on the old shoes was axle oil. The ebrake is released. I wasn't aware of any taper, and maybe the new brake shoes are wrong, but my digital calipers say all dimensions are identical (except for thickness of course). With the adjuster all the way in, it should not rub anyways.

Hey mazdatweeker...

This is what it says under Tech in forums...

Tech Write Ups by Members
Tech write ups by MazdaBScene Members, ask your questions here, once approved write ups will be converted to tech articles for the tech article section.

I don't care if you turn it into a tech write up, or how to, or your next stand up comedy act. I'm not asking how to put brakes on the space shuttle Atlantis. Lol. I'm just seeking constructive input toward correcting this one problem. Don't be so full of yourself.

Not taking anything personally. ~J
91extcab   +1y
YES!!!! ^^^^^ so much win!!! where is my "Like" or "Thanks" button?!