Need some help!!

Hey guys i need some help with my truck. so here's the problem when i start the truck it runs fine until its warm and it wants to die and when i also drive it sputters really bad so i stopped driving it for now until i figure whats wrong...????? i was sort of thinking its the carb but idk

anything will help thanks guys!!!

Check to make sure your choke heater/choke is working and the choke butterfly is not stuck. After driving 10 minutes: see if the choke butterfly is nearly vertical, and not stuck at mostly horizontal. And check that the choke heater wire is plugged into the back of the alternator.

It sounds like a warm-up issue to me, since you say it runs fine at first.

If it's a fatory carb I'd bet dollars to dimes the choke is sticking closed. Herein lies the real problem: Mazda factory carbs suck so you can either swap in a Weber or similar, replace the factory with another factory (I highly discourage this), rebuild the one you have (I really really highly discourage this as I have never seen this done successfully), fiddle around with the choke and see if you can get it to cooperate (I doubt it cooperates) or wire the choke open (cheapest and easiest but you'll have to learn to work the throttle to get it to crank and stay running when the engine is cold). That's just my two cents. I'm sure others will contribute theirs' as well. -Brad

Damn, Cusser. You beat me to it.

coo thanks guys ill probably just end up getting a weber over the next couple of days..

does your truck still have both catalytic converters on it?? i've had this same problem on a couple trucks and i found that the upper cat was cooked..just a different direction to look in before you spend loot..

I agree with Brad, except I'd modify the comment to "Mazda factory carbs suck as they get older". They were just tons too complicated, when everyone else was already into fuel injection. Myself, I have the Weber 32/36 DGEV, about 6 years now, to fix whether it was ECM or carburetor issue, or both.

if you have sputtering with major loss of power, like the engine is bogging down when you step on the gas, I would lean towards the cat. easy check is to take out the O2 sensor and start her up and see if you still have the same problems.

I've had a 32/36 DGV (manual choke) on mine for about 8 months now with no problems. I bought it for a Samurai project but used it on the Mazda. Still haven't re-jetted it or put a regulator on it and except for a slight of idle stumble it's perfect.

If you do put a Weber on it, change the plugs at the same time for two reasons: 1. The old ones are prolly damned near fouled. 2. You'll want to read the plugs for tuning.

Heads up, if the truck has been running rich for a while there may be some carbon build up on the pistons (mine had it). It actually caused it to diesel when I would kill the ignition for the first few days. It did go away, eventually. Of course, I drive the PISS outta mine.

Im having a similar problem with my 1987 b2600 carbd

One day I was driving and I thought I heard a slight pop then the truck would start sputtering on acceleration. Once I got to a certain speed it seemed to go away but then as soon as I slowed down and tried to accelerate it would bog out until I got to a steady speed then it would go away. Also I would shift to nutral and rev it up but it would sputter or anything then. Only when it was it gear.

Its not the egr. I check ed that

I cant really check for overheating because my temp gauge doesnt work. Ive replaced both sensors but still nothing so I ordered a new thermostat and waterpump but I cant change it cuz I dont have the tools here and I dont wanna drive down the street to my aunts where there are plenty of tools cuz I dont want to cause any more problems to my truck.

Ive moved it a few times because of street sweeping and it only sputtered once but oddly it was it nutral. It hasnt done it since but ive only just started it up to move it and thats it.

Any ideas on what ut could be


Its the stock mikuni carb btw