weber 32/36 help

just installed my weber and pacesetter and i cannot get the weber set correct...
i either run to rich and exhaust pops
or to lean and no power..
what sould the timing be set at?
also plug gap?
and what about a fuel pressure reg?

92 mazda b2200 manual tranny

i need help asap
thanx

i just changed my head gasket and i ran into it running to lean, no power/almost choke out at full throttle, turned out it was my timing, it was a tooth off, i was able to advance my distributor to fix it for now. will redo the timing soon. the plugs are gapped at .032 for our trucks. not sure on the fuel pressure regulator though.

ok well i read that stock The fuel pressure should be 3.7-4.7 psi.

and the weber needs 3.5 so its a little high but should be good..

stock timing 6 deg BTDC. with vac removed..
any different with installing the weber?
i have the truck starting right up and running good but just can get the mixture set..
idels great no problems..
stumbles a little under accel
and when i get it not stumbling it pops "backfires" out the exhaust LOUD but other then that runs good...
also dont seem as though it has the power it did..

i installed the weber carb part number wk675 32/35 dgev
a pacesetter header...
no cat.
2" headerback
flowmaster 40 series.

also removed all the emmissions well i still have a o2 sensor.. all the rest gone..

I've run a Weber 32/36 DGEV on my B2200 for 6 years now, runs great. I also have manual transmission, used a fuel pressure regulator for a year, didn't help anything, hurt my wallet and then started leaking, had to remove it in a parking lot at night to avoid a fire (luckily, I smelled gas, was driving with windows open).

I don't have either catalytic converter, I use standard spark plugs at the Mazda setting, also run timing at the Mazda setting. However, I set the timing at 6BTDC with the vacuum line CONNECTED, as my 1988 service manual states, at rpm about 800-900. If the rpm is different, then the vacuum to the distributor is different, got to get that right.

Did you use sealant, like Permatex Aviation, on all the adapter and carb gaskets, and torque everything correctly? This is very important.

" target="_blank" target="_blank

That link helped me tremendously when I just put my holley 5200 on.
Had similar prob with timing being off and studder/stumble on acceleration.

Had to warm up truck completely so choke is not engaged. then turn engine off.
Set the Idle stop screw by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.
Somehow that step of setting the idle screw seemed to make a big diff for getting mine tuned up right.
Then tested the lean/rich screw 1/2 and then by 1/4 turns.
Then set my timing with 6BTDC with RMP's at 750-800.
took off my Fuel Pressure Regulator too, replaced fuel filters as well.
Hope this helps, the RedlineWeber Link helped me tremendously. So READ IT and follow the steps in order too

oh and I couldnt find that "Aviation Sealant" I read about on here, so just went to an autozone and found a high tack sealant.
" target="_blank
used it on all my carb gaskets and adapter plate install and EGR block off plate, not sure if you still have the EGR installed. Think that may have been an issue on mine.

That sealant should be fine (do NOT use RTV silicone for these gasoline-contacting areas).

Permatex Aviation should be available at O'Reillys and ace Hardware.

ok i think i may have it...
now go out pump it 3 times fires right up and runs great..