water pump 2.2

Ok here the thing how can u tell if ur waterpump is goin bad? Is it easy to replace? Any pics and instructions on changing it?

The water pump has a weep hole in the seal area, so if the seal starts going bad, you will start losing water in the area of the timing covers......usually the lower cover is where the water leaks out. I have seen the bearing go bad and it doesn't leak at all, just starts making some noise (not much) and the timing belt will be loose.
Why are you thinking the water pump is bad? Are you leaking coolant?

Oh, you wanted a pic.....right?

My 1988 B2200 water pump gone bad twice in the 17.5 years I've had it (183K miles), at about 188K and about 177K. each time I noticed a little coolant weeping onto the ground from that area.

First time, mechanic changed it in conjunction with a timing belt change, which was due, as the timing belt comes off first anyway.

Anyway, I replaced the water pump on mine laast Maym hadn't done a B2200 water pump before, or a timing belt of any sorts, took about two hours on a Sunday morning. So don't get CHEAP parts, not worth it. I used a Gates timing belt and a carQuest water pump, about $70 total.

There is a technical how-to here. And there's no need to remove the distributor either. Remember, the crankshaft pulley comes off with six bolts, somewhat hidden (10mm socket) - the large 21mm bolt DOES NOT GET REMOVED FOR THIS.

See

Heres the problem....as i dive my truck theres a weird noise...sound like the bearing....but but as my truck heats up the coolant just fills the reservoir and i have to keep putting coolant in the radiator...is that a good description?

I hate to say it, but thats a sure sign of a blowen head gasket in the combustion area.

but would i lose power? i have all the power in the world and no milky oil or anything

Not necessarily........I would do a compression test to see if there is a low cylinder. You could do a leakdown test also and remove the radiator cap so you can listen there when your checking each cylinder to see if you hear any bubbling coming from there.
If the HG has been breached, more than likely it is where the metal ring surrounds the cylinder and it is letting the cylinder pressures past it and into a coolant passageway near the bad area. OR, the engine has overheated and there is a crack in the aluminum head somewhere in the combustion chamber area.
Do some testing first before you just pull the head off of it though........Is it getting hot as you continue to drive it?

You may have two unrelated issues.



Is the truck running hot, or just coolant going into the reservoir like it should, but not getting sucked back into the engine as it should as the system cools? Could be as simple as a bad hose to the coolant reservoir allowing air to get sucked back in instead of coolant. Could also be a partially clogged radiator (hint: if radiator is bad, replace it with a 2-row as used by the automatic models), especially if it's still the factory radiator after all these years.

i had the terrible issue with a plymouth acclaim TBI where a crack in the intake between the coolant lines and the intake to the engine caused coolant to seep into the intake. it did run rough at times, but the problem was this caused an air bubble in the intake, causing the coolant to stop flowing.

it does not get hot at all even when i climb inclines