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Mazda Engine General \  one idiots mistake, my treasure, need help tho please

one idiots mistake, my treasure, need help tho please

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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87projectpow   +1y
After reading some of these forums i decided to do some investigating on the truck. like ive said before, i got it from someone that had no idea what he was doing and has never worked on a bagged vehicle before so i initially got a hell of a deal.

the bad part is, ive said before aswell, ive never messed with carbed import trucks so i really dotn know much about the motors or wiring.
im posting these up to show how much he did, or didnt do and to see if someone could help me out labeling some things.

here is his idea of boring the rims, only side looks like this, the side he ground the tabs off
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i know its a dark and blurry pic, but i hope itll work. in the left middle theres a 2" hose capped with a silver screw, goes to the bottom of the carb i think. is this ok or does it need to go somewhere?
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heres a black wire coming out of grommet in the pass side firewall about 2" above the wheel tub. i looks like it has a white liquid sealant on the copper part, anyone know what this is for?
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heres 6 plugs above the front pass tire on the wiring harness. who knows what these may be for and what they plug into?
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green plug with a long single wire goes towards the bottom of the motor block then i lost it. any idea?
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heres a few more plugs on the driver side of the fan shroud. 2 white plugs and a small black plug that looks just like the one plugged in already.
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to me it seems like a lot. i know there is someone out there or combination of people that know what all of this is for.
i also have a single black with a red line hose looks like its coming from a fuel rail down the pass side. its just hanging there, does it have to go somewhere too
emjay   +1y
Ok, it looks like he fucked all of the emissions controls up. That vacuum line was originally longer, but I forget where it attaches to. Those wire harnesses over the non-existent passenger fender were for emissions controls as well. Are you in a state where you can legally use a Weber (no emissions inspections other than a sniffer, or less?) That green wire hookup is for the oxygen sensor.

I suspect that the hose with red stripe is a vented return, probably from the charcoal canister.

That one lone wire with the white sealant I think is the antenna wire for the radio, I know that the antenna is in the passenger side fender, and the position looks about right. It should be a black sealant or an o-ring IIRC.

Those wires near the ignition coil I believe were for factory diagnostics, tachometer, and other misc computer wires.

Here is a pic that I had identified parts on before, I forget though where the thread with my identifiers are on this, lol!
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Oh, that wheel that he 'bored' out is now garbage, I wouldn't use that unless you want to create an accident.
Post was last edited on Apr 19, 2012 06:04. This post has been edited 1 times.
emjay   +1y
I found it, this was from a thread I contributed on that was for gutting emissions stuff for the Weber.

Purple arrow = charcoal canister. keep this to keep the gas fumes from stinking up the cab.
yellow question mark = relay for the ptc heater. keep this intact if you wish to use the ptc heater to prevent icing over the carb. also requires that little sensor in the radiator to be intact as well.
blue arrow = horn relay. keep this for the obvious
top green x = these are vacuum switches. These can be scrapped for just the weber. However these can be incorporated into the power steering setup and the ac setup to help bump the idle. A diaphragm will also need to be added so it can pull the linkage on the carb.
lower right green x = excess vacuum lines. can you say SCRAP?????
lower left green x = some sort of check valve. The valve may serve a purpose for the evap canister, but not too certain here.
The light blue x is the vacuum sensor. This won't be necessary anymore.
Red x = altitude compensator. I have no earthly idea how the heck that this works. my guess is that it senses a difference in atmospheric pressure with something mechanical inside, and allows for a slight vacuum that then goes to a switch or a check valve and upps the idle or fuel somehow. With a weber it's complete garbage and can go.
upper left light green x = I have no idea what this is, other than the fact that it can grow legs and disappear with a weber.
Black x = no clue here either. it can be trashed.
mymmeryloss   +1y
Ah man. Im not gonna be much help here, but i can suggest upgrading to a weber carb so u can eliminate a lot of that shit u have goin on there!

Good luck with it!
87projectpow   +1y
thanks man. that pic you posted explains it all. it tends to make it a bit easier when you see what is supposed to be there as compared to it being there, and scratching the dome trying to figure it out.
i live in ga, but since the vehicle is 25 years old i dont need emissions on it, considered an antique vehicle after that point, ha my truck is older than my wife...hahaha..sry

i plan on doing a weber setup i just need to find one i can use for a good price. preferably close so i dont have to pay shipping. and as you can sorta tell by the pics there is NOTHING on the pass side except for the little fuse box which is now on the core support. and there is a wire hanging around which happens to be the only thing he had labeled..HORN...lol

the only issue with the wheel is that i cant afford to get any new ones. im trying right now but im unemployed but that doesnt mean bills stop.
87projectpow   +1y
by the way anyone willing to donate a spare set of wheels, or atleast one spare wheel that i can use that lives close by so i can just pick up, until i can get my own
gcncsuhd   +1y

Where are you located?
87projectpow   +1y
itll have to work for a lil bit..its my daily driver as of right now
axel breaker earl   +1y
Since you still have the stock carb on it and all of the emission stuff is removed, your probably not getting good gas mileage right now......the stock carb needs all that stuff to act as a "lean burn" system......when it's missing or malfunctioning then the ECU sets the carb into a "limp mode" of operation which is really just an overly rich condition so you won't burn a hole in the piston or burn a valve.

I would do the Weber swap for sure, it's much easier than trying to track down all that stock stuff AND get it hooked up right! It will look like black spaghetti when you get all of the vacuum lines back in there!

Here's a couple more pics of the stock setup, as well as a Weber setup.......the Weber one will be the cleaned up version!

The stock setup, with air cleaner removed and the 4 vacuum hoses that hook onto the air cleaner and/or it's devices are plugged with some golf tees temporarily so I could run the engine with the air cleaner removed.

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And the "cleaner version"!

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After I hooked up a breather tube into the Weber air cleaner base.

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I just left all of the emission junk on the pass. fender in case I wanted to put it back to stock form........but it will probably get EFI one of these days, and never look back!

Oh, looks like the wire coming out of your firewall (white grommet) might have been an attempt to install a different antenna at one time or another??
87projectpow   +1y
axel breaker-
my gas mileage isnt too bad. i filled up where i live and drove down to ft. stewart a few weeks ago, about 240miles, and drove around town for 2 weeks and didnt have to fill up the tank until the night before i drove back. its pretty good right now considering i only have a 12 or 15g fuel tank.
i am trying to find a weber kit to use. ive looked on ebay and theres alot of 32/36 on there. does the fact that the listing says opel or someother auto oem make a difference or will the kit still work?