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Mazda Engine General \ crankshaft bolts torque.crankshaft bolts torque.
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knightwalk3r
+1y
Hi, this is My first post. I have a 1989 mazda b2200 se5, 5 speed manual. I am currently rebuilding my engine, I just got my crankshaft installed and was what the making sure torque specs are correct. the book says to torque to thurst bearing cap to 10-12ftp. do I leave it like that? because after that sentence the book says to re-tighten the bolts. can someone translate that for me plz. thanx in advance. and also the thrust bearing is the middle one with the fat lips on the sides, correct? also thread seal or assembly grease? sorry, amateur...... never mine.... I guess that was a stupid question...
axel breaker earl
+1y
Use assembly lube on the surface of the crank journals, and drip a little on the bearings before you lay the crankshaft in the block.
The bearings are installed DRY! Do not put anything on them before you install them in the block and caps. Just make sure the pieces are as clean as you can get them before assembly, including the bearings themselves.
When the bearings are installed in the block and main bearing caps, then you can lube them with an assembly lube and lower the crank into the block. Dribble a small amount on the cap bearings and install them in the EXACT position that they were in when you disassembled the block.......they are numbered 1-5 with the #1 at the front of the engine and the #5 at the rear........and yes, the thrust bearing is the #3 bearing which is in the very center of the crankshaft & block.
You'll need to lightly "tap" the main bearing caps to get them to seat into the machined area that they fit into on the block........it's a tight fit for a reason, so as to help keep the cap from moving under a load. Then squirt a little engine oil on the main bearing cap bolt threads (yes you can reuse the original bolts as they ARE NOT torque-to-yield bolts), and squirt a little engine oil onto the bolt head where it will sit on the main bearing cap, then install the cap bolts.
Tighten the cap bolts in 3 different stages, with the final stage being the torque spec for them........and you want to start with the center #3 cap and work your way outward........so do the #3 first, #2 second, #4 third, #1 forth, and #5 last.......and do it 2 more times while stepping up the torque setting on the torque wrench with the 3rd time set on the max torque setting that they are supposed to be set at.
I will post some stuff on the torque specs and procedure here in just a couple of minutes! If I recall correctly, the max on them are 65 ft. lbs. and NOT 10-12 ft, lbs.!
The bearings are installed DRY! Do not put anything on them before you install them in the block and caps. Just make sure the pieces are as clean as you can get them before assembly, including the bearings themselves.
When the bearings are installed in the block and main bearing caps, then you can lube them with an assembly lube and lower the crank into the block. Dribble a small amount on the cap bearings and install them in the EXACT position that they were in when you disassembled the block.......they are numbered 1-5 with the #1 at the front of the engine and the #5 at the rear........and yes, the thrust bearing is the #3 bearing which is in the very center of the crankshaft & block.
You'll need to lightly "tap" the main bearing caps to get them to seat into the machined area that they fit into on the block........it's a tight fit for a reason, so as to help keep the cap from moving under a load. Then squirt a little engine oil on the main bearing cap bolt threads (yes you can reuse the original bolts as they ARE NOT torque-to-yield bolts), and squirt a little engine oil onto the bolt head where it will sit on the main bearing cap, then install the cap bolts.
Tighten the cap bolts in 3 different stages, with the final stage being the torque spec for them........and you want to start with the center #3 cap and work your way outward........so do the #3 first, #2 second, #4 third, #1 forth, and #5 last.......and do it 2 more times while stepping up the torque setting on the torque wrench with the 3rd time set on the max torque setting that they are supposed to be set at.
I will post some stuff on the torque specs and procedure here in just a couple of minutes! If I recall correctly, the max on them are 65 ft. lbs. and NOT 10-12 ft, lbs.!
axel breaker earl
+1y
Here are a few pics of an engine I built a while back...
Here the crank bearings are installed and it was all clean and dry prior to doing this.
Then I lubed the bearings with a red colored engine assembly lube.
Don't forget to lube the thrust surfaces on the #3 bearing! Put a little on the crank in that area also before you install it.
Lubing the cap bearings....
Lay the crank in place (don't spin it until all caps are on and tightened.....this keeps the assembly lube and the bearing halves in the place you put them!!) and then install the #3 cap and torque it down slightly.......as the book has said......and then take a rubber mallet or a steel hammer with a piece of wood protecting the crank and give the crank a good tap from the front, and then from the rear, and then you can start installing the other main bearing caps, working from the center outward as stated earlier.
Once you have them all installed you can set the torque wrench to a higher setting, and start at the center and work outward, then do this once again with the wrench set to the max torque for these crankshaft bolts.........I like to go with 20 ft. lbs. first, and 40 ft. lbs. second, then 65 ft. lbs. for the final torque procedure.
Here the crank bearings are installed and it was all clean and dry prior to doing this.
Then I lubed the bearings with a red colored engine assembly lube.
Don't forget to lube the thrust surfaces on the #3 bearing! Put a little on the crank in that area also before you install it.
Lubing the cap bearings....
Lay the crank in place (don't spin it until all caps are on and tightened.....this keeps the assembly lube and the bearing halves in the place you put them!!) and then install the #3 cap and torque it down slightly.......as the book has said......and then take a rubber mallet or a steel hammer with a piece of wood protecting the crank and give the crank a good tap from the front, and then from the rear, and then you can start installing the other main bearing caps, working from the center outward as stated earlier.
Once you have them all installed you can set the torque wrench to a higher setting, and start at the center and work outward, then do this once again with the wrench set to the max torque for these crankshaft bolts.........I like to go with 20 ft. lbs. first, and 40 ft. lbs. second, then 65 ft. lbs. for the final torque procedure.
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