ac issues.. help its so hot!

Hey guys. I redid the ac in my truck myself to the best of my knowledge. Converted it from r12 to r134a. I replaced all the o-rings and cleaned all the lines. I tool it somewhere to charge it n it blows cold. But there's a couple issues. 1. The compressor turns off n turns on a lot. Keeping it from blowing cold all the time. 2. Sometimes it doesn't come bk on n I notice the light on the button is off. So I have to turn the knob on n off, on n off a bunch of times til the ac comes on again. 3. There's also a bit of a leak from the compressor so I'm debating on a o-ring rebuild for it or just a new compressor..
1 n 2 are my main issues I need help with. Thanks for reading and for any info ya can help me with

Sorry. It's a 94 b2200

Ham - something's not kosher about a 1994 B2200 !!! I couldn't help myself on that one. B2200 were from 1987-1993 in the US, and in 1994 Mazda trucks were clones of the Ford Ranger. So tell us what you have if you want help, or post a photo of the engine.

Anyway, with a compressor leak, no shop will recharge, and you definitely have lost some R134a. So tough to tell if you have problems in additiona to the compressor, you need a new one. Your cycling could be due to low refrigerant pressure from the leak; made-in-Japan B2200 trucks are protected by a pressure switch on the receiver-drier, not sure how the Ranger-types are protected; these prevent the compressor from running when there's not enough refrigerant to cycle the oil around.

Every automotive AC system I've ever worked on has a low pressure cutout switch. Some newer systems even have high pressure cutouts.
Cusser is right. Fix your leak and you'll be fine.

SinCity - he's in Florida, he doesn't know what HOT is. We were 107F during the 10pm news last night, hottest I've seen it. Mrs. Cusser's Yukon read 117F yesterday, my brother's car 120F. Last Wed it was 102F at 1 am.

As far as I knew these trucks do not have a low pressure switch. They have a "freeze stat" as we call them. It is a long capillary tube that is pushed into the evaporator fins. This switch cycles the compressoa as needed to keep the coil from freezing. When it "opens" it will turn off the light for the ac switch as well. Some cycling is common if it is not that hot outside or you are running the fan on low speed. But if it is cycling alot and it is hot outside (and the fan is on high speed) you have a loss of charge (leak) or a lack of airflow. A lack of air flow could be; a dirty blower wheel, dirty evap coil fins or maybe the fins on the heater core are dirty. If the system has a leak it will cause the temperature of the evaporator coil to run colder than normal (below 32 degrees) and will cause the freeze stat to open untill the coil "thaws" and then will close again. If you listen you can hear the little "click" that it makes. Just listen for the noise down by the fan. You will hear it when it clicks. Good luck. Oh ya, fix the leak too!!!

You do have a low pressure cut-out.
They're put in the system to save the compressor from burning itself out if you lose refrigerant, which carries the oil throughout the system.

Srry guys. It's a 92 b2200. So first step would be the new gasket/o-ring kit for the compressor to stop the leak or just a new one. A buddy of mine was telling me something about an orphus tube or screen that might need to be dirty and causing it to cycle so much? Thank u for all the input. Pls keep it coming.

Orphus tube??? That's a good one: he meant "orifice tube", which these trucks DO NOT HAVE. The have an expansion valve attached to the evaporator.

Your low pressure switch is screwed into the receiver-drier, in front behind the grille, passenger side. It's screen should serve to keep the expansion valve clean; I think if the expansion valve was clogged, you wouldn't get any cooling at all. A 1992 would have a high pressure relief on the rear side of the compressor.

Mazda-Man was referencing the de-icer thermostatic switch which senses the temperature in the evaporator. Yeah, it's possible that this can go bad, but the one thing you KNOW is that the compressor leaks. ALWAYS fix first what you KNOW is bad.

I just looked in the manual. You are correct. The switch is a loss of charge switch. It appears to open around 20 PSI and close at 40 PSI. I was not familiar with this B2200. On my B2600i it is a dual pressure switch, opens at 20 PSI but can also open at 265 PSI if needed.