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Mazda Engine General \  91 b2200 wont fire

91 b2200 wont fire

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 9
following 5
 
chrismp91   +1y
bout a b2200 project (major project lol) has old bolt on cnotch and 4 link witch is gona be trashed and it needs major help got it for 500 bucks but said it had a motor knock....problem was flywheel was lose so fixed that put it in time and did a weber swap...now it isn't getting spark all new plugs and wires new coil battery and it turns over and gets fuel but no light to it any idea? maybe the distributor bad?
mazdafvr   +1y
i would say either your distributor isnt turning maybe due to chipped teeth or foul timing belt or maybe you just knocked a wire loose off the coil or somthing while swapping carbs and timing it.
Cusser   +1y
Did you R&R the distributor when you did this? If so, could be the rotor/distributor drive orientation even if the body looks like it used to. Set engine to TDC #1 using the crank pulley position (remember, only once in two revolutions is this on #1) and see if the rotor points at the 9 o'clock position as you look at it.

Also check the plugs firing order on the distributor cap, as you did R&R those.
chrismp91   +1y
well it started before but died cause the flywheel was loose and we droped the tranny and instaled a new one and clutch kit and put the motor in timming with #1 and crank at top center and it turns over just wont spark...the coil has energy when truck turns over I felt it lol
chrismp91   +1y
and what does R&R mean? and I have a new distributor but how do I instal one corectly I don't wana have it wrong and blow my motor
mazdafvr   +1y
put motor to top dead center. use the timing marks. and take the dizzy cap off and set rotor to 9 o clock. should do u just fine.
87forever   +1y
Just to answer the R+R repair or replace.As said cam and crank tdc and nine o clock.Just for reference normally the distributor bolt is almost dead center when locked in place.Could be a tooth off on the distributor making a almost fire scenario.Tired I am.
chrismp91   +1y
well got to messing with it and everything is getting good spark but I thank its not gettin gas to the plus cause there dry and it wants to spit raw gas out the carb....I held the flaps open and pored alittle gas right down threw it and still nothing not even a little start up at all
mazdafvr   +1y
if its spitting out of the carb or backfiring u may be 180 degrees off. when u line the marks up, sometimes the #1 piston will be all the way down instead of all the way up. take the plug out of #1 closest to dizzy, and take a straw or something that wont scratch, and stick it in the hole. it shouldn't go very far down if the piston is all the way up. should only go in a couple inches. if it goes down too far, turn it one full turn till it pushes the straw up all the way, should be one full turn.(leave the cam lined up don't turn it with crank) and double check to make sure your dizzy button under the cap is at about nine oclock. could be something else but this is the only reason ive ever had fuel shoot out of my carb. good luck.
daeman   +1y
+1 for your timing being 180 out. Being a 4 stroke engine there are two top dead centres for each cylinder, tdc exhaust stroke and tdc compression stroke. If you've accidently set your timing with number 1 cylinder in tDC exhaust then whatever residual fuel there is in the cylinder is igniting just as the inlet valves are opening to begin your intake stroke, which will cause backfiring etc through the carby.
If your unsure of where your at then you can either remove your top timing belt cover or rocker cover. Your camshaft sprocket spins once for every 2 turns of your crankshaft. There is a timing mark on your cam sprocket that when lined up, should see your crankshaft timing marks lined up also. Otherwise you can check via removing your rocker cover, line up your crankshaft timing marks and feel the rocker arms for number 1 and number 4 cylinders, to be on tdc compression stroke for number 1, the rocker arms should not be compressing the valve springs for that cylinder while the arms for number 4 should be slightly compressing both inlet and exhaust valves slightly.
Either way will allow you to make sure your distributor is fitted correctly.
Also as a side note. Your dizzy and cylinder head have a couple of small timing marks that make getting your timing right pretty easy. There should be a small raised bump on the base of the distributor body shaft, right near the drive gear. There will be a small indentation on the drive gear that you should line up with the bump I just referred to. Then with those two marks aligned there is a mark beside the hole where the dizzy goes in, make sure you have the dizzy marks pointing towards the mark on the head as you slip it in back in and providing you have your engine on tdc compression stroke for number 1. Your timing should be almost perfect.
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