Turning just regular air(no AC), compressor engages On & Off

(revamped from earlier deleted thread)
Hi!, newbie here!
I bought a 1998 Mazda B2500 automatic with 40,000 miles on it and I'm trying to address issues that were neglected by previous owner.

One thing is that whenever I turn just the air(No AC), the AC engages and then keeps turning On for about ten seconds and then Off.
This recurs continually even after turning On the AC or the heater!
There's this clicking sound that preludes the AC powering up or down.
I kinda hear it the strongest farthest to the left near the passengers side near the engine firewall.

My understanding is if the AC compressor is low this would be a factor,but this happens when I don't turn AC On.
The only thing that I have repaired so far has been this long thin gray air vacuum hose coming from the passenger side that merge with some much larger black hoses that were hot to the touch.The symptom continued.
Any idea what this could be?

I've done some further research but most is over my head.
Can anybody point me at the right direction?
I've read the issue with the AC turning ON & OFF but have not seen with just the air(no AC).

P.S...All my turn signals and spray washers don't work either,so I'm replacing the the multi-switch lever assembly on the left of the steering wheel to see if that resolves the issue.
I am trying guys so some helpful advice would be very appreciated.

On many vehicles, the AC compressor will also come on when the defroster is selected, to de-humidify the air. Could this be a hint?

I know that in other Ford models, when you select certain positions (ac, max ac, and defrost) the compressor kicks on automatically. I'm wondering if this could be part of what you are experiencing right now.

Is the fan turning? Have you checked your fuses? I would start there first.

I'm not sure why it's kicking on.

As for the kicking off, like you suggested, it's kicking off because it might be low on refrigerant. On 86-93 trucks, if the refrigerant is low enough, then it probably won't kick on at all. But if your truck is partially low, then it might take almost ten seconds for it the low side pressure to drop down low enough for it to disengage the clutch. Once it kicks off, then it will only take several seconds for the pressure to rise enough for it to kick on again. So that would be my guess on the cycling.

You said the turn signals don't work. How about when you turn the hazard lights on. Reason I'm asking is that the hazard circuitry is usually supplied by battery voltage where as the turn signal is usually only supplied with the ignition on. At least that might tell you if it's a power supply issuer, a "flasher module" problem, or a switch problem.

As for the washer, did you check all the fuses?

I'm going to buy some AC gas with the dye.Maybe it is just low and leaking.
Now for the the hazard light, they work and I have also swapped the flasher module and the turn signals still
did not function.Fuses in the cabin are all good.
I just got another multi-swich turn leaver & will see if that helps with the signals.
I have noticed that there's some aggressive rust by the lower left front windshield next to the passenger side.
There is also some humidity in the passenger floor area as well....possible short!?

Turn Signal was Bad!


Next will be the AC pressure/leaking issue.

R-134a with UV dye is OK to use. Basically: if it is lower than optimal on refrigeration level, then you have a leak which must be fixed.

JUST STAY FAR AWAY from any can that states sealers, seals leaks, or conditioners.

Refrigerant and (optional) dye keeps a refrigeration system happy, and prevents it from being an expensive boat anchor.

That turn signal switch looks horrible - any way to just clean off the corrosion (like soaking in vinegar) then cleaning it up?

baking soda and water will clean that right off, then hit it with a clear lacquer to protect it.